The Umstead Coalition Umstead Inspirations

Serviceberry

Tue, 16 May 2023 14:02:35 GMT

So, I have a new obsession. It’s bad. I’ve resorted to walking up to visitors at the park and sharing my obsession with them because all of my coworkers at the Visitors Center are pretty much tired of me talking about it all the time. I have no one else to tell, so I figured I’d share it with you. Oh yea, and because I’m a park ranger, the thing I’m obsessed with is a tree – or to be more precise, the fruit of this tree.

Every March, in a sea of brown and gray bark in the forest, one of the first blooming trees stands out like a bright white lighthouse in a hazy, fog ridden ocean. Its vivacious and numerous white flowers illuminating the dreariness of late winter as if to say, “Don’t worry, spring is coming soon”. Of course, I am talking about trees in the Amelanchier family or a tree/shrub more commonly known as serviceberry. The problem with common names, like with many other plants, is that different people in different places have different names for the same plant. This tree and its berries are a shining example of this problem. Juneberry, serviceberry, saskatoon berry, shadwood, sarvisberry, sugarplum, wild-plum, or even chukley pear…just to name a few. I have always known the tree to be called serviceberry, so for the remainder of the post, that is what I’ll refer to it too (sorry to all of you chuckley pear fans out there).

By early May, those beautiful white flowers that are heavily visited by all kinds of pollen seeking insects have long wilted and fruits are abound. The tree becomes loaded with first green, then pink, then nearly purple berries that resemble blueberries in their size and shape. Not necessarily dripping from every branch, but loaded down enough that people who first learn about the tree are genuinely impressed with the volume of fruit on it. The best part about these berries are that they’re edible…and delicious. Tasting like a cross between a blueberry and a blackberry, the serviceberry turns your fingers somewhat purple but not as bad as other fruits like red mulberries.

There’s a few great things about serviceberries. The tree is native to our area, only one tree is needed for pollination, they are well behaved and function well as an ornamental tree for landscaping uses, and a single 10-foot tree can produce enough fruit to keep a family’s palate content for the month of May. Plant more than one and you might be looking at making jam or preserves from the berries or even freezing them for smoothies throughout the summer (my favorite option). The berries contain higher levels of iron, manganese, fiber, and calcium than blueberries and are high in polyphenol antioxidants. An all-around good choice.

So, the next time you’re thinking about planting another red maple tree or some non-native crepe myrtle in your yard, consider the humble serviceberry to provide a splash of spring color that also benefits wildlife. It will not only provide a welcome sign of life after winter, but also liven up your tastebuds. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I see a family getting out of their minivan right in front of the serviceberry tree. I have four new people to share my obsession with.

- Ranger Nick Dioguardi

Aliens

Sun, 07 May 2023 19:05:53 GMT

Don’t worry, I haven’t gone off the deep end wearing a tin foil hat. And I’m not talking about little green men from Mars in flying saucers. I am, however, using the word in its literal sense. What I’m referring to is all of the non-native and invasive plant species we find in William B. Umstead State Park that I have a lot of experience with and, collectively, we spend a lot of work hours trying to get rid of. According to the dictionary, the word alien means “belonging to another country or nation”. There are a lot of problematic invasive plant species that plague our park, but I’ll just touch on three specifically that give us the most trouble.

Autumn Olive

The first plant that we do battle with on a weekly, if not daily basis, is Autumn Olive or Elaeagnus umbellata. First imported from Asia in the mid 1800’s for erosion control, Autumn Olive is a bush-like plant that can grow as tall as twenty feet and produce thousands (yes…I said thousands) of little berries that are adored by birds and wildlife. The troublesome weed does just fine in poor soils and does well in shade or sun, so pretty much everywhere in the park. We tend to find it forming dense thickets in valleys along Ebenezer Church Road on the eastern border of the park and along our powerlines where birds like to sit and deposit the seeds mixed with a little of their own … semi-liquid fertilizer.

What’s so bad about this plant? Well like many invasive species, Autumn Olive can be so aggressive that it can outcompete other native species and create somewhat of a monoculture. That means that the hornbeams and oaks don’t get enough sunlight to grow on the forest floor because the sun is being blocked out by the dense foliage of all that Autumn Olive. This plant is pretty identifiable by the (what I call) “Tin-Man Silver” on the underside of the leaves.

And when the plant fruits around July, you can see it dripping with small red olive-like berries that are actually edible by humans. While the unripe berries are highly astringent, ripe berries can be rather sweet and palatable. So palatable, researchers at Cornell University and the University of Wisconsin looked into the possibility of growing autumn olive as a commercial crop due to its ability to thrive without the use of pesticides and herbicides and its high levels of lycopene. Luckily, they decided against it for fear of it escaping onto neighboring farms.

Chinese Wisteria

The next on our list of bothersome aliens is Chinese Wisteria. You probably just saw this plants flower blooming recently as it hangs off vines in many residential areas. The purple cluster of flowers smell especially good and can provide privacy between properties. Many people plant this in their yards and do a pretty decent job of keeping it at bay with proper trimming, cutting, and the possible use of herbicides. The problem occurs when someone plants Chinese Wisteria and, for one reason or another, the plant isn’t managed properly.

That happened when folks moved out of the properties that now make up William B. Umstead State Park in the 1930’s and left their Chinese Wisteria plants to grow unchecked. The spreading vines crawled along underneath the accumulating leaf litter and sprung up twenty feet away in each direction.

Then the vines crawled up tall trees, tightly winding around and choking the life out of their timber-based ladder as they grew, and then dropped their seeds to exacerbate the problem. Once Chinese Wisteria gets a foothold in an area, it can be a decades-long effort to try and eradicate the plant from that location.

Chinese Privet

The final plant I’ll bring up is one we find specifically in the floodplain areas of our park that possess sandy and wet soils. Chinese Privet, with its blue and black berries that are a favorite of many songbirds, infests many of our low-lying areas in the park. Most people won’t notice it because it thrives in hard to reach areas of the park, but where it is found it can be abundant. We tend to find it near the confluence of Sycamore and Crabtree Creek, along Richland Creek, and the headwaters of Sycamore Creek north of Big Lake.

What is actually kind of refreshing about Chinese Privet is that when the plant is young, it can be removed without the use of herbicides. Its naturally shallow roots combined with the sandy soil it thrives in allow it to be pulled quite easily from the ground.

This makes the effort of removing the plants a lot more family friendly, and we’ve hosted a number of volunteer events where children have helped remove privet from the park. However, left to mature, Chinese Privet can grow to look like any other small tree in the understory and send up new growth from lateral roots that require the use of herbicides.

What You Can Do

So, what can you do to help mitigate the problem of invasive “aliens”? Well to start, if you’re a homeowner, please don’t plant these plants on your property. If you have these or any other invasive species on your property, safely remove them and replace them with a native plant. Instead of Wisteria, plant Purple Passionflower. You’ll love its purple flowers that grow into a temperate climate passionfruit that is reminiscent of the tropical varieties or better yet, the native wisteria. Instead of autumn olive, pick something useful and edible like highbush blueberries.

And the second thing you can do is volunteer to help remove the species we have at our park. Every year we hire seasonal park attendants who spend at least thirty hours a week doing nothing but mitigating invasive species, and that’s on top of the numerous hours a week that our ranger staff also commits to this endeavor.

If you’re curious about whether or not you have invasive species on your property, and good native plants to replace them with, check out these resources from NC Agricultural Extension. With any luck, and a lot of hard work, we’ll be able to avoid a full scale invasion of these “aliens” in our beautiful park.

- Ranger Nick Dioguardi

Plant a (Milkweed) Seed

Sat, 10 Dec 2022 16:39:18 GMT

A seed is a pretty magical thing, in my opinion. It represents potential, possibilities, and hope for the future. Every fall, I think about seeds a lot when I find myself in the garden scouring crispy brown flower blooms to grow next year’s plants. Nature does a wonderful job on its own of spreading plant seeds so the next generation can grow. Some plants, like native Persimmon (Diospyros virginiana), wrap their seeds in a tasty little sugar filled fruit that gets eaten up by coyotes and other hungry critters and deposited sometimes miles away in a pile of scat. Coyotes are a sassy, unashamed bunch who like to leave their droppings right in the middle of the trail, as if to say “Yeah, that’s my poop. What are you gonna do about it? Huh!” You’ll see a thin little pile of scat this time of year, usually containing some kind of squirrel or rabbit fur and a smattering of oblong brown seeds about an inch long that contain a future persimmon tree.

While some plants have evolved to create sweet and tasty fruit around their seeds as a means of spreading their DNA, others rely on more passive methods. Milkweed plants, for instance, devised an ingenious method of seed dispersal using something that is more or less always around in one way or another: the wind. If you’ve ever seen an open milkweed pod on a gusty fall day, you’re likely to see a whimsical show. The seeds are attached to something called “floss”, which acts as a kind of parachute/sail to carry the milkweed seed on the breeze to a destination ranging from mere inches to many miles away. This floss, other than being used for its intended purpose of seed distribution, is actually quite useful.

Back in World War II, school children throughout the Midwest would see signs saying, “Two Bags Save One Life”, and “Don’t Let Our Sailors Sink”. The United States Government called upon the girls and boys of our nation’s heartland to harvest milkweed pods and fill old onion bags full of their floss in order to stuff life jackets for sailors and airmen in the war. These bags were dried and sent via rail and vessel to a former lumber mill in the town of Petosky, Michigan to be processed into fill for life jackets. Children were paid 15 to 20 cents a bag, which required a fair bit of work to fill completely. For many though, the nickels and dimes were not the objective, it was bringing their fellow countrymen home safe and doing their part in whatever way they could.

I thought about those honorable kids who are over eighty years old today as I was picking milkweed pods this past August and September. And although we picked the same pods of the same kinds of plants, I was after something other than the fluffy floss. Every year, volunteers painstakingly count out between twenty and thirty seeds of three different species of milkweed native to our area and fill handmade paper pouches. Some go to the Umstead Coalition to sell during their Native Plant sale, and the remainder are given away to the public outside of the Visitor Center of William B. Umstead State Park during the holiday season. Come December 15 th , in a small wooden box next to the front door of the building, you’ll notice small colorful paper containers of milkweed seeds. They contain Common Milkweed, Swamp Milkweed, and Butterfly Weed. All host plants for the Monarch Butterfly and all beautiful additions to gardens all over North Carolina.

So if you’re in the market for a stocking stuffer for an avid gardener in the family, a first night of Hanukkah gift for a green thumb butterfly lover, or just a simple way to enter the world of flowering native plants for yourself, stop by William B. Umstead later this month to pick up your free milkweed seeds. Please only take one species per person and please please please, only take them if you are sure they’re going to be planted in the early spring. I’d hate to see all that hard work get left in a sock drawer or lost on a shelf in the garage instead of germinating into food for a migrating butterfly next May. If you have any questions on how to plant them, check out this blog from a great non-profit called MonarchWatch. It’ll tell you how to grow the seeds and make sure they all germinate.

Hopefully we’ll see you outside the Visitor Center in the next few weeks. And make sure to pop in and ask for Ranger Nick if you have any questions on your new seeds.

- Ranger Nick Dioguardi

Fall Planting & the Importance of Native Plants (+ Our Plant Sale is Coming Up!)

Thu, 22 Sep 2022 21:02:41 GMT

Did you know that fall is the best time to plant? With cooling temperatures and increasing rain, plants have time to establish their roots before the spring growing season. The larger root systems will help the plants be stronger and more successful in the summer. Read more about why fall is the best time to plant from the NC Cooperative Extension.

Native Plants Explained

"Nearly all of us get our plants from nurseries, but the plants in most nurseries fall into two very distinct categories: they are either native to your area — that is, they share an evolutionary history with the plant and animal communities in your ecoregion or biome — or they are plants that have developed the traits that make them unique species elsewhere", said Doug Tallamy in Nature's Best Hope.

Many typical garden ornamentals come from East Asia, the Mediterranean and the tropics. Tallamy says, "...plants native to the region are almost always far better at performing local ecological roles than plants introduced from somewhere else."

Native plants are crucial for biodiversity. Read more about the benefits of native plants from the North Carolina Native Plant Society.

50 Native Species & 1,400+ Plants!

In just a few years, we've grown our plant sale from around 50 plants to over 1,400! We're thrilled with the community's interest in growing native plants to help build and restore healthy ecosystems. Here are some of the plants we're excited to offer:

Garden Stunners

You’ll be the envy of your neighbors with these!

Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)
Cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis)
Dogwood (Cornus florida)
Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis)
Fringetree (Chionanthus virginicus)
Oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)
Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
Sweet pepperbush (Clethra alnifolia)
Serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis)
Sweetshrub (Calycanthus floridus)
Witchhazel (Hamamelis virginiana)

Fruit Trees & Shrubs

Pawpaw (Asimina triloba) are the largest edible fruit native to North America and look similar to a green mango. Their taste can be described as a mix of banana, pineapple and mango and they make excellent desserts like puddings, ice cream, pastries and more. We'll have 70+ pawpaw trees for sale. Read more about the ever-popular pawpaw here.
Blueberry: Blueberries produce more and larger berries when they can cross pollinate with another variety. We're offering Rabbiteye (Vaccinium ashei) and Highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum).
Persimmon (Diospyros virginiana): "An unripe persimmon will turn your face inside out. But when they’re ripe or even post-ripe, mercy, that’s a fairy tale about a magic forest where jam grows on trees." Persimmon pulps can be described as a blend of "apricot, dried peach, guava jam, roasted pumpkin and a speck of spice or nuts." Read more entertaining facts about the persimmon at Our State.

Milkweeds for Monarch Butterflies

Did you know that monarch caterpillars will only eat the leaves of milkweeds? Or that milkweeds are quickly disappearing in the wild because of loss of habitat and pesticide use? The good news is that it's easy to grow milkweed in your garden. We'll be selling four types of milkweed: whorled (Asclepias verticillata), common (Asclepias syriaca), swamp (Asclepias incarnata) and butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa).

Find the Best Plants for Your Zip Code

Visit the National Wildlife Federation’s Native Plant Finder to find plants that host the highest numbers of butterflies and moths to feed birds and other wildlife where you live (hint...we'll have a lot of these available!).

Volunteers Needed

We're looking for 10 more volunteers. If you're interested in helping out, sign up here.

RSVP for the Plant Sale

We're expecting a large crowd. Please let us know you're coming. RSVP here.

Location

We'll be set up in the grassy area on the right when you pull into parking lot at the Reedy Creek entrance to William B. Umstead State Park. 2100 N Harrison Ave, Cary, NC 27513.

Thank you to Mellow Marsh Farm and Sorrell's Nursery for supporting William B. Umstead State Park by growing and providing the plants!

Wingstem

Wed, 21 Sep 2022 21:02:08 GMT

If you’ve been walking through the park in mid-September, you might have noticed that almost any un-mowed, grassy area is alive with a sea of tall, yellow flowers. Whether it’s the powerlines by Big Lake, the curve in the Multi-Use trail along Reedy Creek Lake Trail, or even at our park’s Visitor Center, one plant steals the show this time of year. Wingstem, or Verbesina alternifolia, is a mainstay of fall wildflowers at William B. Umstead State Park and plays a key role in the environment around here.

Named for the short flaps (or wings) of plant material extruding from the stem of the plant, Wingstem is native to much of the Ohio River Valley, southeast, and Midwest of the country. From Kansas to North Carolina, and from Michigan to Alabama, Wingstem blooms anywhere from July to October, depending on where in the country you may find it. Here in our part of North Carolina, you can just about check the calendar and circle September 15th for when you want to start looking. This date is pretty important because it falls just a few days after the peak Monarch butterfly migration comes through our area. Wingstem provides ample opportunities for the southbound lepidoptera to stop over and grab a snack on their annual journey down to the mountains of Mexico.

Wingstem is a host plant for Silvery Checkerspot butterfly, Summer Azure butterfly, and Gold Moth. This means that these insects will seek out this plant to lay their eggs on so the caterpillars can eat the leaves and complete their lifecycle. It’s also an important fall flower in our area for tons of wasps and bees when many other summer bloomers have gone to seed for the year.

Wingstem grows well in medium wet soil and prefers a bit of shade, but you can grow this plant in your own backyard if you are looking for a little early fall color. It can get up to eight feet tall and can be a bit of an aggressive spreader by seed, but when much of the garden loses its hue, Wingstem will be there to make September pop with its golden yellow petals.

If you haven’t recently, come out to the park to check out this beautiful flower that blankets the powerlines like some kind of a natural yellow brick road. We’d love to see you out enjoying the park and soaking in the last bits of summer weather before we start shifting to the bearable days and cooler nights of fall.

- Ranger Nick Dioguardi

Tree Identification

Fri, 25 Mar 2022 01:05:48 GMT

There’s a phrase that has always given me pause. If you were to say, “he can’t see the forest for the trees”, you’re commenting on someone’s inability to identify the bigger picture because they’re too focused on the individual, minute details of a problem. As a Park Ranger, and overall lover of dendrology, I take direct offense to this phrase because it makes me feel guilty for my love for trees and the methods of identifying these magnificent plants throughout the various seasons of the year. But I wasn’t always so immersed in, and familiar with, the forest in my life.

When I first started working at William B. Umstead State Park as a Seasonal Park Attendant some 11 years ago, I didn’t know all that much about trees or how to tell them apart. Sure, I took a few classes in college that had to do with plant biology, but none of it really stuck. When I first started working here, I wanted to properly learn about tree identification but was intimidated by the sheer magnitude of species in the forest and was about to throw up my hands and surrender. However, a since retired Park Ranger used another idiom to help me in my studies. He asked me “How do you eat an elephant?” to which I answered, “One bite at a time.”

From that point on, I picked one tree species a week and immersed myself in it as I drove around the park working. Stopping to run my fingers along the deep ridges of a Loblolly Pine or peel a flake of the light-gray fringe protruding from the trunk of a wise White Oak. I would pick a leaf off a Red Maple and hold it next to a specimen from a Southern Sugar Maple and use the skills I gathered from reading Highlights magazine as a kid to identify as many differences as I could find between the two similar yet different varieties.

In late March I would wait for the magenta-pink flowers of a Redbud tree to bloom before standing on the toolbox of my truck and nibbling a small handful to taste the organic sweetness they provide. I’d look both ways to see if a diligently patrolling Ranger would notice me grabbing a few extra Redbud flowers, then bring them home to add some color and phytonutrients to my salad at dinner. In the dry heat of the summer, I would nibble the leaves of the Sourwood trees and let its oxalic acid stimulate my salivary glands while hiking on a dusty trail. My perpetually parched mouth grateful for any drop of liquids I could come by while I was out digging ditches on the multi-use trail in the heat of the day.

Then as fall began, I would watch the way the Painted Buckeye lost its leaves long before any of the other trees along South Turkey Creek Multi-use Trail. And when the buttery tasting Mockernut Hickory nuts would fall and litter the forest floor beneath the mighty giants, I knew winter was well on its way.

After my nearly two years of seasonal work at the park, I had studied dozens of tree species and worked my way up from novice to (self-proclaimed) intermediate just in time to be offered a job as a Ranger. I’m not quite sure when I’ll qualify as an expert, but I hope it happens before I hang up my badge and my Ranger hat in the Visitor Center in some 20-odd years. In the meantime, I’ll continue to get out in the forest as much as possible to study the unique shade of persimmon bark, the fine serrations of dark green cherry leaves, and the floral scent of the tulip-tree flowers and hone my skills out here in the forest of William B. Umstead State Park.

Hopefully I’ll see you out there doing the same.

- Ranger Nick Dioguardi

Photographer: Ernie Sears

Good Fire

Sun, 20 Feb 2022 18:40:08 GMT

If you’ve visited the reedy creek side of the park in the last few days, you may have noticed a change in the forest near Picnic Shelter #2. No, the trees haven’t started leafing out just yet. Nor have the maples started blooming their tiny red flowers either. The change you’ll see is on the forest floor where the charred remains of old sweetgum saplings lay peacefully on the blackened earth next to burn marks at the base of Shortleaf and Loblolly Pines. On Valentine’s Day, Monday, February 14th , there was more than just love in the air in Cary, North Carolina.

There was a column of white smoke from a prescribed burn performed by the Rangers of William B. Umstead State Park, the State Park’s Burn Crew, and the State Parks Natural Resources Team. Although the prescribed burn was only 7 acres of the nearly 5,600 acres comprising William B. Umstead State Park, it represented a positive step in the right direction for conservation and resource management in the park for many reasons.

Source: Daniel Dey, Richard Guyette, and Michael Stambaugh

What does this brightly colored map above indicate? Does the deep orange and red show the places where people are retiring to, seeking warmer weather and lower taxes? (No, but interestingly enough there does seem to be somewhat of a correlation.) Well, according to research conducted out of the University of Missouri in 2011, this map shows the Mean Fire Interval for different geographic locations in our country. That’s a fancy way of saying how often natural wildfires took place between the years 1650 and 1850. Natural wildfires are largely defined as fires started by lightning strikes but can also, in much rarer occasions, occur from a concentration of the sun’s heat and even sometimes by meteor strikes.

If you look at the blue star I added to the map, our area of North Carolina lies somewhere on the line showing that a wildfire naturally took place about every 4 years or so. This make sense seeing that in my 11 years at this park, I have responded to two different wildfires started by lightning strikes. What is different from the late 1600’s was that we extinguished our two lightning strike fires before they got to be more than an acre or two using modern tools and technology. The fires that were naturally started before large scale European settlement of the continent could burn for tens of thousands of acres before being naturally extinguished by rainfall or by reaching a river or other natural barrier. Gradually creeping along the forest floor for days or weeks before ceasing their slow-motion cleansing of pine needles and other debris dropped at the base of the continuous and uninterrupted forest east of the Mississippi River.

Does this mean that the land comprising Wake County was just some sort of constant flame-ridden hellscape where nothing could survive? Actually, quite the opposite. The lower intensity fires that did burn in the southeast had less fuel to consume because of the more frequent natural burns that did take place. Additionally, the flora and fauna that once called (and still calls) this place home are largely fire adapted if not fire dependent. Animals naturally seek shelter either above or below the flames, and the trees that are supposed to be inhabiting this ecosystem have adapted natural defenses to the short but intense bursts of heat.

Species like the Shortleaf Pine (Pinus echinata) are one of these fire adapted plant species that used to comprise a larger swath of this forest hundreds of years ago. Along with its cousin, the Longleaf Pine (Pinus palustris), Shortleaf Pine saplings survive slow moving, low intensity fires on the forest floor while other trees may not. However, a much more abundant species in our park today, the Loblolly Pine (Pinus taeda) was normally found in wetter areas or along streambanks where fires wouldn’t naturally reach. These Loblolly Pines were planted by the thousands when the park was first constructed back in the 1930s and 1940s to reforest the largely barren farm fields left behind by the farming families of the Ebenezer Community. Younger Loblolly saplings cannot regenerate when top-killed by fire while similarly aged Shortleaf and Longleaf roots survive under the soil and can regenerate their stems and needles not long after fire moves through.

After a burn, younger deciduous tree species like maples and sweetgums tend to die after their thin bark is damaged by the fire. The hardier pines, older Chestnut Oaks and White Oaks, grasses, and perennial wildflowers survive and/or return unaffected and the more natural order of the forest is renewed. This being the second time we’ve burned this 7-acre unit in the past 5 years, we are starting to see these changes take place and it brings us hope that we can start to see more prescribed burns occurring on bigger acreages in the park in the coming months and years. So, don’t forget to check the William B. Umstead State Park homepage before you decide to go for your next hike in the future. The trail you are hoping to wander may be closed due to a 70 or 100-acre prescribed burn being intentionally set by qualified and trained naturalists and State Park staff members. And be sure to check in on our Reedy Creek parking lot burn the next time you get a chance. You might just see a Shortleaf Pine sapling emerging from the ashes as it reaches towards the sky in its (now more) natural habitat.

To read more about the benefits of prescribed fire and some of the native plant and animal species that prescribed fire can help, take a look at the websites I included below. And if you can’t make it out to the park, check out a picture I took.

Thanks for reading,

Ranger Nick Dioguardi

Picture taken February 19, 2022 at William B. Umstead State Park – Near Reedy Creek Parking Lot

Resources

Pine Trees and Climate Change

Sun, 12 Dec 2021 21:58:12 GMT

Are you aware that the Longleaf Pine and the Loblolly Pine may be the first of North Carolina's indigenous trees to be adversely affected by climate change?

These trees are monecious, meaning that individual trees have male catkins and female cones. Male catkins produce large amounts of pollen that is carried by wind to fertilize the immature female cones or conelets. Fertilized conelets eventually produce seeds.

Various changes in air quality such as temperature, particulate matter (PM), and volatile organic compounds (VOC) for extended periods can disrupt the ratio of catkins and cones, which can potentially reduce the ability of these pine trees to reproduce.

It's definitely something to think about next time you're in Umstead State Park.

Slip Sliding Away

Billy Drakeford — Wed, 28 Jul 2021 19:28:44 GMT

I was on the dock at Camp Crabtree a few summers ago with my daughter and we watched a swarm of water striders, also known as Jesus Bugs or Pond Skaters, zig-zagging about for a long while.

Her delight in their water skating ability took me back to days where I sat by the edge of a creek and watched their shadows, which looked like a small slender body surrounded by black circles. When I tired of watching, I would try to scoop one up in my hand, which is a task on the level of catching a fly out of the air with chopsticks.

I briefly thought about telling my daughter how they stay on top of the water, but I believe it is better for her to just to first enjoy nature magic and draw her own conclusions. The “magic” that allows them to stay afloat is the non-wettable hairs on their tarsi (feet), the lower half of their legs and the surface tension of the water.

Basically, the spread weight of the water striders on the hairs of the feet and legs is not enough to overcome the attraction of the water molecules to each other. This is also why you can oh so carefully place a needle on the surface of a glass of water and it will float. If you allow either end to go under the surface, the needle will sink. This is why the claws of water striders are not on the tarsi but located further up the leg, to ensure the surface tension is not broken by them.

National Geographic recently reported that each microscopic hair has a groove on them. They wrote, “These grooves trap air, increasing water resistance of the water strider’s legs and overall buoyancy of the insect.” How cool. Childhood tests of sizable rocks thrown in the water beside them showed that they could easily remain buoyant even in explosive waves.

The striders move by rowing the middle and back legs. For slow movements, they use just the middle legs, but if they really need to move, as for catching a prey item, they use both the middle and hind legs together. These middle and hind legs have vibration sensors that help the water striders effectively “read” the ripples in the water. The ripples could mean predators or prey. The front legs are greatly shortened and are used mainly for grasping and handling prey items.

Prey items are aquatic and terrestrial. The water strider eats terrestrial insects that get caught on the surface of the water and catch aquatic insects that come to the surface to breathe. They also eat mosquito larva that have breathing tubes on the surface.

Water striders are in the order Hemiptera or the “True Bugs” and they have piercing mouth parts that puncture through prey and then suck it in. When not in use, the mouthparts are tucked between their “chin” and “chest”.

Toward the end of fall, water striders fly to nearby wooded areas and spend the winter under the litter of the forest. In spring, they return to the water with females laying eggs on floating objects. The nymphs start their lives on the surface, eating whatever comes by until they molt five times and become adults.

So, the next time you find your doctor telling you that you need to relax, not be so tense, just remember to tell him/her that you, like the water strider, thrive on tension.

Know more to see more,

Ranger Billy

Born to Be Wild

Billy Drakeford — Tue, 29 Jun 2021 19:18:47 GMT

This is a five part series on the old days of the park, following a superintendent's son who was born in the park in 1960. A big thank you to Mr. Johnson, who spent time talking with us and being recorded.

Part 1: Reedy Creek State Park

Ranger Jess and I recently had the privilege to speak with James Johnson Jr, who was in fact, born in the superintendent’s residence in the park in 1960 and lived there until 1985. Mr. Johnson’s father and namesake was hired to be the superintendent of Reedy Creek State Park even though he did not have any park experience, but he did have the required Bachelor’s Degree and had worked with the state previously. Since the park had been segregated since 1950, Reedy Creek State Park was the park for Blacks and Crabtree Creek State Park was for Whites. All of the Rangers were also Black at Reedy Creek State Park.

Reedy Creek State Park was not easily accessed during Mr. Johnson’s (Jr.) childhood because I–40 would not be completed until around 1971 and there was no Harrison Avenue entrance. To get to the park, you had to go down Blue Ridge Road to Old Reedy Creek Road and keep going down Reedy Creek Road till you came to the turn going over Reedy Creek Lake and then up the hill. You could also enter off Trenton Road. Both ways were a combination of dirt roads and gravel roads that were open 24/7. In Mr. Johnson’s words, “You had to really want to be there.”

To put how secluded it was in perspective, Mr. Johnson said, "You could go a week to a week and a half without seeing anyone on the Reedy Creek side." I did a little digging and found a superintendent’s report from 1958 that gave the numbers entering the park from January 1^st to August 31^st and it was just over 14,000 people with 44 people listed as hiking and 6 as fishing. The remainder used the picnic area, and the biggest crowds, by far, were on Sunday.

I asked the obvious Ranger question; how did they track the fisherman and hikers so well? Mr. Johnson said that you had to drive up to the park office, which was at our maintenance compound now, get a fishing permit, and then walk down to the lake to fish. Just like now, most fishermen/women did not want to carry their gear that far. The reason there were not many hikers then was they only had one small loop trail at that time. The Company Mill Trail, Loblolly Trail, and Inspiration Trail were not here yet.

The isolation suited the Reedy Creek Rangers just fine, and as Mr. Johnson put it, “The Crabtree side had more resources, equipment, and easy access, but the Reedy Creek side had the time.” The Reedy Creek Rangers made signs and picnic tables for a lot of parks and made sure to keep the picnic area immaculate, because they felt they had to be better because they were looked at differently.

Part 2: Segregation

Being vastly ignorant about the realities of segregation, Jess and I asked what it was like for the Reedy Creek Rangers to be working then. Mr. Johnson said, “That’s just the way it was, they didn’t worry about it, they just did their job.” I then asked him for the real deal, but he didn’t add anything; only that his mom might remember differently. Jess and I shared a look, both thinking we would have to talk to her in the near future.

As a follow-up question, we asked what would happen if someone went to the wrong park, and he surprised us by saying many whites came regularly from Cary and no one cared. I asked if anything would happen on the Crabtree side and Mr. Johnson said, “Myers Braxton (Crabtree State Park Superintendent) was a progressive person and didn’t believe in those laws.” Mr. Johnson seemed to know that it was not an issue on the Crabtree side because he said, “Black people policed themselves. They knew where to go and not go.” At that time, he said, “There were three state parks that blacks could go to, Reedy Creek State Park, Hammock’s Beach, and Cliffs of the Neuse.” After doing a little research, I think he meant Jones Lake State Park rather than Cliffs of the Neuse.

Ranger Jess asked about desegregation and what that looked like, and Mr. Johnson said, “It took some years to tell any difference because all of the groups that came to the camps during segregation were the same afterwards. It took a while for it to look different.” Mr. Johnson continued, “After segregation, they (the state government) had to get Reedy Creek up to speed, paving the roads and adding Ranger residences.” When he went over to check out the Crabtree side, he immediately saw where segregation showed because he thought, “Good Lord, they have everything here. Over at Reedy Creek we had about one-fifth of the equipment.”

Part 3: Early life in the park

Switching gears, we started asking about his life as a boy growing up in Reedy Creek State Park. I started off by asking, “Why didn’t your mother go to the hospital to have you, as she was a nurse?” He replied, “There was 6 to 8 inches of snow on the ground and they didn’t want to risk getting stuck on the park roads. Another factor was that the nearest segregated hospital was on New Bern Avenue.” Again, I was surprised, perhaps naively thinking that hospitals would not have been segregated.

When we asked him to tell us more, he said, “You couldn’t ask for a better place to grow up. I could swim and fish anywhere. Crabtree Creek had no pollution and had a bigger, deeper flow. At that time there was no Lake Crabtree and no treatment plant off Crabtree Creek, and one of my favorite places was the Oddfellows tract because it felt wild.” Whispering Pines Camp was also one of his favorite places because the fishing was so good in the one-acre pond there (No longer there.) This pond was shallow and served as the swimming area for smaller kids at camp. You can still see the old stone structure on Reedy Creek, which was used for raising and lowering the water in the small pond.

The way he described it, he seemed to be the young prince of the park, having his way wherever he was. When he was 13, his father would send him in the dump truck sometimes to empty trash or put out the fires in the grills in the picnic area. Sometimes the Rangers would pay him five dollars to cut the grass on hot and humid days, so he had money to spend as well.

I asked him what trouble he got into at the park, and he said, “We could talk about that a long time.” He then said, “I cut down a large oak with a park chainsaw to have a good crappie bed to fish, got the dump truck stuck on the roads, and took the power boat out on Big Lake.” He also had an L key which opened everything in the park, a fact that drove the Rangers crazy but made him very popular with the fishermen because of his access in the park.

Knowing the answer already, I asked him if his sixteen-year-old self turned that key in when he moved out, he laughed and said, “No, but I don’t think it works anymore.” My sixteen-year-old self would not have turned it in either.

“Perhaps the best thing Mr. Johnson said ‘was being with my father, who would say to me, ‘Come on boy, let’s go ride the roads (of the park)” or walk with him on his traditional Sunday walks from the Mill site to the spillway at Reedy Creek Lake. Mr. Johnson always loved riding with his dad or other Rangers when they delivered signs because it gave him a chance to see other parks.

One time when he was 8, his father had a superintendent meeting at Hammock’s Beach, he went out on the ferry to Bear Island and stayed there unsupervised until his father was done (That is blue ribbon non-helicopter parenting). Mr. Johnson also got to hang out with Governor Holshouser (in office from 1973 to 1977). The Governor and Mr. Johnson senior had met at the Governor’s inauguration, and Governor Holshouser “often came to the Reedy Creek State Park to hide out from Raleigh at the Park Office.”

Part 4: "Community"

All of the Reedy Creek Rangers had close ties to the community. It was a relatively small community then, with only one house between the park and the current Veterans Memorial on Harrison Ave. Mr. Johnson estimated about 10 houses existed between the park and Cary. Not hearing I-40 would certainly give the park a much wilder feel.

Everyone knew each other in the community and looked after each other. The Rangers were often called upon by neighbors to help with trees across the roads and such like. It was a reciprocal relationship and the neighbors who farmed “bombarded the Rangers with vegetables.” Mr. Johnson told us of a hippie commune that was just outside the park, whom the Rangers really liked and would give rides to the store or downtown if they were going that way.

At that time, there was a concession stand down at the large picnic shelter and at the Whispering Pines Camp, and a big part of the Ranger’s job every week was going to the store and stocking the canteen with snacks and ice. Generally, his father loved to do things for people, and if he could make a special request happen at Reedy Creek State Park, he did. Mr. Johnson told us that the only problem the Rangers had was with poachers.

His younger sister Marquesa was the Ellie Mae of the park. For you that have never watched “The Beverly Hillbillies,” Ellie Mae was the girl who always had some “critter around her neck.” Marquesa could be seen many a day with her hands cupped together carrying some little squirrel, baby bat, or some other small animal. He remembers one time walking outside and his sister had a bobcat pinned against a tree with a stick saying, “Look at the big cat.” Luckily, Marquesa did not get mauled and the bobcat retreated as soon as it was allowed to.

Part 5: Goodbye to Park Land South of I-40

Another thing we found interesting was when he mentioned park land on the other side of I-40 saying, “They used to store the mattresses from Whispering Pines in a white barn by a pond over where SAS is now. We had like 140 acres over on that side.” “What happened to it?” Jess asked and he jokingly said, “You might want to cut off the microphone for this one.” He said, “There was an attempt before I-40 opened to take large sections of the park, which was shot down (one of many attempts). After I-40 separated the park land, it was easier to “chip off/sell those pieces that people probably didn’t realize were park land. If you turn down Old Reedy Creek Road off Weston Parkway, the little blue house on the right used to be a Ranger residence.” Who knew? After doing a little research, it seemed that the park swapped that land for some that widened a section on the southeastern side of the park.

Mr. Johnson is going to come over and visit again, and we are going to drive around and let him tell us what changes have happened. We look forward to that. Mr. Johnson said that memories of the times at Reedy Creek come up a lot in their family and one of their favorite sayings when someone is acting out is, “It must be the Reedy Creek in you.”

Thanks again to Mr. Johnson for his time and stories!

Know more to see more,

Ranger Billy

Red Bugs Build Character

Billy Drakeford — Wed, 23 Jun 2021 18:04:35 GMT

Red Bugs are actually arachnids (not “bugs”) and are called chiggers, harvest mites, spawns of Satan, as well as many other profanities. Their closest relatives are ticks, so you know they come from a bad family. Red bugs are the microscopic immature stages of some mite species that can leap onto any passing animal to dine. They do not discriminate, feeding on humans, birds, reptiles, amphibians, and a host of other animals. Pity the snakes who get them under the scales with no fingers to scratch with.

In my experience, they seem to like dampish areas with overgrown grass. A long day exploring some of the grassy bluffs of the Congaree River in South Carolina resulted in what I thought was on a biblical plague level showing. The only comfort I found was Romans 5: 3-4 that loosely says, “rejoice in your suffering, knowing that suffering produces endurance, and endurance produces character, and character produces hope.”

Personally, I think everyone should have the “red bug experience” at least once in their life for their own edification and reflection. My nephew Kyle was with me when he had his first crop. He manfully embraced the itch and suffered whine-free. However, he was scratching so much that I contemplated duct taping oven mitts on his hands.

Once on the host, chiggers do not burrow under the skin as is commonly believed. They simply inject digestive enzymes through a feeding tube that dissolves skin cells that they can slurp up. These enzymes are what causes the itch, and this can last for days.

Removing or dispatching the red bugs is as simple as rubbing your hand briskly over your body every 15 minutes or so. Unfortunately, red bugs are inclined to feed in warm moist areas that would be socially unacceptable to rub briskly at almost any time.

The itch can be ferocious, and I remember many nights having a 2:00 am scratch session that went on and on. The raised welts look bad enough on white legs but combined with the self-inflicted panther- like scratches, it can be enough to cause a public spectacle.

My grandmother Jennie had a preventative for red bugs which was to tie a turpentine-soaked piece of cotton around both ankles. My cousin Mary and I became believers after a wood filled afternoon with no red bugs, but we found that the turpentine rag chafed our skin and burned after hours with it on. So, you had to pick your poison.

The army had an effective sulfur-based preventative called Chiggaway that worked perfectly. That this was never seriously marketed for the public made it highly suspect to me. Nowadays people just douse themselves in bug spray and for the most part, this works very well. Staying on a trail works amazingly well also.

A good thing to do when you get back from the woods is take a shower and wash with soap. This will take care of the mites that are on you, but the damage will most likely have been done. Your skin will harden where the feeding tube was inserted and will begin to itch. Some people like Calamine lotion but I found it laughably ineffective. Some people swear by oatmeal baths.

I apply Icy Hot muscle rub because it seems to counteract the itch somewhat. The best thing, however, is to realize that this too shall pass, hopefully in a few days but up to a week, and at the blessed end, you will have gained a modicum of character and hope.

Know more to see more,

Ranger Billy

Umstead Bobcat Quest

Billy Drakeford — Thu, 29 Apr 2021 15:09:17 GMT

My bobcat sightings are similar to me having a girlfriend in high school; a surprising and rare event for which I was grateful. I canoed a lot when I was younger, and I saw a handful of them on logs over the rivers. I mostly saw their tracks.

The closest I ever came to one was on a canoe trip in the Okefenokee Swamp when some friends and I were camping on Jacksons Island where bobcats would come right up to you expecting a handout. They were impressive, beautiful animals and looked like scrappers.

My grandfather trapped during the Depression and he had a large cage to live catch some larger animals. My Uncle Joe told me he caught bobcats(as well as one overly curious neighbor kid) in that cage and took some to Charles Town Landing State Park in South Carolina to reside as the first bobcats in their Animal Forest. From all the stories I have heard about my Grandfather, he could, as the saying goes, whip his weight in wildcats.

There is still a legal trade in bobcat skins, but even the trapping, studies seem to agree that the bobcat populations are remaining steady or increasing since the 90’s.

The Umstead bobcats are proving troublesome to find. So much in fact that I started the Umstead Trail Cam project in hopes of finding one. I am a fair tracker and I have yet to see a bobcat track, scat or kill in the park. I suspect our bobcat population has declined but to what extent I don’t know. There is a great story from one of the Ranger’s kids in the 60’s about him walking outside to see his sister pinning a bobcat to the ground with a branch.

Bobcats are not big animals in the South, with an average weight for males being around 10 lbs and around 7 lbs for females. A big northern male may top 50 lbs. When you take a look at the beautiful video of a northern bobcat jumping a stream, look for the striped tail with the black tip as well as the tufted ears. Check out this video of a bobcat jumping over a river with a single leap. It is all power and grace.

Bobcats are known to be generalists when it comes to diet. Their preference would be rabbits, mice, squirrels and birds, but they will eat snakes, amphibians, crustaceans, insects and rarely skunks. Bobcats kill fawns and young deer as well. Cats are not the long-distance runners like the dog family, so the bobcat hunts with slow careful stalking culminating in a short all-out sprint or lie in wait at a likely spot.

February and March are the peak breeding season with a 60 day gestation so little blue-eyed (when they are born) bobcats have just arrived or will be with us soon. They will be weaned in two months and then the mother will teach them to kill by bringing young birds and mammals to them. By the fall, they will be self-sufficient.

To end, if you see a bobcat, please report your sighting to me, along with the general area you saw it at. Also, please feel free to send a picture of any tracks that look like the picture.

Know more to see more,

Ranger Billy

Front Track 1 5/8" - 2 3/8" long 1 3/8" - 2 1/2" wide

Rear Track 1 9/16" - 2 3/8"long 1 3/16" - 2 1/2"wide

All about Antlers

Billy Drakeford — Wed, 15 Jul 2020 19:15:57 GMT

I was walking with my family in the late winter off trail near Paradise Pond, the only pond you go by on the Loblolly trail, and my wife spotted a newly dropped antler. I say it was new because it did not have any gnaw marks on it yet and it is a calcium rich delicacy of the forest for many animals. My son and daughter carried it around like a war trophy the rest of the afternoon, each making sure of getting equal time and trying to gore each other at unsuspecting times.

Antlers are regrown and shed each year and are in fact, the fastest growing bone in the animal kingdom. Whitetails can grow up to a ¼ inch a day. Unlike other deer bones, antlers have no marrow. Research has shown that deer’s ribs become brittle and can break easily during antler growth, such is the draw of minerals from the body at this time.

In North Carolina, most antlers are fully developed by the end of August, after which the bucks, with some aggression, rub the velvet (thick velvety skin with many blood vessels that cover and nourished the antlers) off. By late January here, when the mating frenzy has subsided, antlers loosen and fall to the ground.

Generally, only males have antlers, the caribou being the exception in the deer family where all females have antlers, but there are anomaly’s for whitetails as well. One study in the late 1950’s from Kenneth Doutt and John C. Donaldson showed that about 1 doe in 4024 has antlers. This can be caused by hormone imbalances, hermaphroditism, and rare abnormal tumor growth secreting male hormones. We can only hope that these rare cases are treated better than Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer was during the Reindeer games.

You can’t really tell how old a deer is by the size of its antlers but deer reach their full physical growth in about 4 years, and then they may have more nourishment to grow the mega rack of antlers that adorn many living room walls. It is the combination of food, age and heredity that makes or breaks rack size. With the right diet and right heredity, bucks will have a bigger rack each year. When a buck gets old, rack size may dwindle.

Long drawn out fights between bucks are rare, and they are made up mainly of bluffs and posturing (much like a lot of human fights) though charges happen, followed by a lot of antler pushing till one buck tires and retires from the fight. Injuries do happen, but are rare, since most of the animals fighting are somewhat evenly matched. The old saying that it is not the size of the dog in the fight, but the size of the fight in the dog, does not generally apply to deer.

Antlers are not for protection from predators, if they were, they would be retained well into the winter period of deep snow in the north where deer are at their most defenseless. Deer protect themselves by rearing up and slashing with the front feet and this is how bucks and does fight each other as well.

Check out these videos to see that this defense is no joke. The first one gives you a feel for their power against a man and the second against a mountain lion. The mountain lion might have won in the end, but the deer gave him all he wanted.

Know more to see more,

Ranger Billy

Mosquito Hawk

Billy Drakeford — Wed, 17 Jun 2020 17:35:28 GMT

Not so long ago, the tails of the dragonfly earned them the name of Horse stingers and Devils Darning Needle, where apparently dragonflies would sew up the eyes and ears of children as they slept. A dragonfly cannot sting of course, but people saw them flying around horse herds where horses suffered noticeably bloody bites from horseflies, and wrongly accused the dragonfly. I learned some time ago that some dragonflies can and will deliver an impressive pinch/puncture with its mandibles.

I ran the Environmental Investigators Camp in Charleston, SC in the 90’s, and one of our parent pleasing take homes was pictures of kids with dragonflies on their noses. I caught a rather large green darner and placed it on a boy’s nose, and he screamed bloody murder. It had pierced and bloodied both sides of the bridge of his nose with its mandibles, which bled for an inordinate amount of time and swelled up quite impressively. That was the sad end of dragonfly pictures and perhaps the beginning of one group of children’s lifelong fear of dragonflies.

Now a short but necessary side trip into Greek mythology. Nymphs (think beautiful, alluring, vengeful, spiteful, scantily clad, and easy to anger young maidens) were minor deities, associated with some aspect of nature. A naiad was considered to be a freshwater nymph. In biology, a nymph is an immature stage of an insect which will metamorphose into a different adult form. A naiad, in biology, is the same thing but has an immature stage that lives in the water.

A dragonfly starts its life as a naiad, with an aquatic immature stage that can last a few months up to two years. A dragonfly naiad is carnivorous and has a modified mouth part that is like a spring-loaded trap. Their “lower lip” is elongated and jointed and folds nicely under the head. When prey, up to minnow size, swims by, the “lip” flips out and hooks on the tip sink into the prey and bring it back to the mouth for eating. My kids and I were doing some aquatic sampling together and they were quite impressed when I pulled the “lip” down with my fingernail to show them. Both firmly declined to try to do it.

After molting several times, a naiad climbs out of the water to shed its skin one final time and begin its life as the adult dragonfly we know and love. Adult dragonflies live, on average, about a month and they spend this time voraciously consuming mosquitoes, midges and mites, thus it is sometimes rightly called the mosquito hawk. Their adaptations include eyes with up to 30,000 lenses, compared to our one, which gives them almost a 360 degree field of vision. Their legs come with spines and dangle down in a basket shape to trap insects in the air and the dragonfly dines while it flies. They are also fast fliers with average speed being in the 20-mph range.

Mating is an acrobatic, somewhat bizarre affair, that is best seen while described or it can be hard to visualize. That they have been around for some 300 million years is proof of its effectiveness but still, it seems a tad rough. Hit the video to see them in all their mating weirdness. Parents beware, there is strong sexual content of the insect kind here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mZuggJQHmko

Big kudos to the first person who sends me a picture with a dragonfly on their nose!

Know more to see more,

Ranger Billy

Homesteads in Umstead: McGee/Zimmerman Homestead

Thu, 11 Jun 2020 19:18:12 GMT

In a continuation of Ranger Billy’s #woodlandtales, we find ourselves at a historic homestead. This has both National Park and NC State Park significance. Watch Ranger Billy on Umstead State Park's Instagram's IGTV channel now.

Red Fox: The Catlike Canine

Billy Drakeford — Fri, 15 May 2020 19:14:14 GMT

Everybody likes a success story and the Red Fox certainly is, with the largest geographical range of any carnivore. I see gray foxes much more here, so it is always special when I see a red fox. The last one I saw at was near Oak Rock Trail and its reddish orange coat, black ears and its white tipped tail was beyond gorgeous. I stood there for a good five minutes having a stare down with him like Clint Eastwood at the end of the Good, the Bad and the Ugly, wondering how such a brightly garbed animal can be so successful. It would be like a ninja wearing a pumpkin suit and remaining stealthy and unseen.

The red fox, though clearly belonging in the canine(dog) family, has many feline(cat) characteristics. Red foxes have long cat like vibrissae(whiskers), similar long thin knife-like canine(the longer front pair)teeth, and do not shake prey to death like other members of the dog family. Like the cats, they exert continuous pressure with their canine teeth until the prey’s central nervous system is overwhelmed. They also have feline like claws which can partially retract and similar cat like balance. The eye of the fox has a catlike vertical slit as well.

Red foxes look heavier than they are, weighing between 6 and 12 pounds in the south and about 40 inches long. They have 42 teeth, keen vision, exquisite hearing and sense of smell. One legend about its hearing is that they can hear a wristwatch tick from 100 yards. They are first class sprinters and have been recorded at 45 miles per hour, which is fast enough for adult foxes to outrun or out maneuver coyotes, dogs, or wolves.

Umstead red foxes here breed in late fall and early winter, with their gestation/term of pregnancy being 52 to 53 days. Between the bathroom and the Big Lake parking lot, red foxes have used a den hole there for years but skipping the last two years. Ranger Nick had a great picture of some pups here gnawing on a deer leg outside the den hole, not 5 feet off a social trail. The fact that he did not share this information with me until months later is still a bone of contention between us. I attributed this grotesque selfishness to his youth and hope he will gain more of the sharing spirit later in life.

Many authorities have noticed red foxes are denning closer and closer to humans when coyotes are present. Coyotes, of course, will kill any fox they can catch being about 1/3 bigger and viewing foxes as competition. Coyotes, however, are on the losing end of the stick with wolves in the same way. The smaller canine must adapt, move or die. It is the canine way.

One historical story is that early highbrow colonists imported red foxes to hunt in the colonies due to hunts of grey foxes that ended rather quickly with the grey foxes climbing trees. This led to the myth that there were no red foxes in America, which was not true. Red foxes that were up north, started to move south with the forest opening, which matches their preference of woods and open areas. Recent tests of red foxes show no European genetic markers.

If you are interested in learning more about foxes, J. David Henry has an excellent book called How to Spot a Fox. Enjoy this video of a red fox scream and pay attention to how fast it turns at about second nine. I have heard this sound at night here at Umstead. The fox here looks like it just wanted to play.

Know more to see more,

Ranger Billy

Woodland Tales: Millstones

Mon, 11 May 2020 19:35:53 GMT

Today Ranger Billy shifts gears and delves into some of our park’s history with unfinished millstones that can still be seen if you know where to look. Watch Ranger Billy on Umstead State Park's Instagram's IGTV channel now.

Woodland Tales: Boughs of Holly

Wed, 06 May 2020 21:05:59 GMT

Ranger Billy explores boughs of holly, gets a visit from a hoppy friend, and shares some tidbits on a flower not frequently seen by visitors in the park. Watch Ranger Billy on the Umstead State Park Instagram IGTV channel now.

Eastern Tent Caterpillar

Billy Drakeford — Wed, 15 Apr 2020 15:43:35 GMT

I am not saying I should have been referred to a child psychologist for troubled children, but looking back, my propensity to massacre scores of innocent creatures could have been worthy of a visit. I truly liked eastern tent caterpillars and shivered in delight at how they felt walking up my arms. This, however, did not stop me and my friends from climbing trees with our bb guns, setting up sniper positions and trying to blow away every caterpillar that came out of the nest.

I stopped sharing these childhood stories with my wife, as they seemed to trouble her. Her stories of her European childhood seem to be straight out of the Sound of Music, which frankly troubles me.

The good news is that during my insect safaris, I did learn quite a bit about these tent caterpillars as a boy. I learned that they hatched from a waterproof, hard-black case that encircled the twigs.

Once they hatch, the caterpillars immediately set out to build the familiar web that you see every spring. This web continually expands to house the growing caterpillars and away from the feces dump in the middle. There is some evidence that inside the nest can be 2 to 3 degrees higher than outside temperatures, which is important in early spring.

Their hatching always coincided with the leaves coming out, which makes sense because it is then when the leaves are the most nutritious. This is important because caterpillars must grow as fast as possible to avoid bird predation, parasitoid wasps, and other bug predators.

After dissecting one nest, I noticed the tree branches had lines of silk that caterpillars left on the way out and back. Later, I read that caterpillars returning from more nutritious feeding areas somehow broadcast this fact in their returning silk lines, as more caterpillars would follow these lines over the others. That is nature cool.

After molting five times, the caterpillars disperse in solitary journeys to find a safe place under boards, beneath bark, or some other protected nook to start the next step in their journey, the pupa stage. This is the stage where they are in a cocoon and one of nature’s most magical transformation occurs; that of a caterpillar becoming a moth or butterfly.

These little moths are not long for the world; their only task is to mate and lay eggs for the next season. Perhaps having such a short adult life is for the best, as Aldo Leopold once said “Adult hood is merely a dilution of the essentials, worn down by the trivialities of living. (Paraphrased)

On a side note, my son seems to have the same proclivity to go on insect safaris as well. Once he burns it out of his system as I did, the boy might become the nature nerd his father became. I can only hope. Enjoy this video of a shedding tent caterpillar.

Know more to see more,

Ranger Billy

The Divine Dogwood

Billy Drakeford — Mon, 16 Mar 2020 18:34:02 GMT

Flowering dogwoods have always been an integral part of my life, and their beauty in the spring and throughout the year is unsurpassed. North Carolinians, Virginians and Missourians proudly call it their state tree. I can’t imagine a spring without them, and I watch for their beautiful white bracts with eager anticipation. It would not be out of bounds to clap when you see them. It is that good. George Washington himself, planted a circle of dogwoods with a redbud in the middle at Mount Vernon. This act was visionary and proof of his worthiness to be our first president in my opinion.

While climbing dogwoods as a boy, I learned that they were tough and hard to break. They were some in the woods I climbed and bent over till they dropped me on the ground. One, me and my friend Rudy would climb together and make it bend with our combined weight till one of us dropped off near the ground, thereby sending the other back up with the tree. I later found that dogwood was used in the textile industry due to this strength and high resistance to splitting.

Dogwood has had some obsolete uses in the past. When the southern ports were blockaded during the Civil War, medicine was hard to come by, so the southern soldiers used a lot of natural remedies. Dogwood bark was the south’s answer to malaria when they couldn’t get quinine. Before this, some native American tribes used the roots to make a scarlet dye.

Dogwood is also known to be an important wildlife food plants, feeding many birds, and mammals like rabbits, gray squirrels, chipmunks and deer. I have watched groups of birds gorging on dogwood fruit in the fall and it always seems a raucous affair. The bitter fruit is considered unpalatable for humans.

Here is a story from Ernest Thompson Seton in his classic book, Woodland Tales called “The Devil and the Dogwood.” It was Adam’s favorite tree they say, in the Garden of Eden. It grew so high and gave so much pleasure that the Devil wanted to kill it. He made up his mind that he would blight and scatter every shining leaf of its snowy bloom.

So, one dark night he climbed a Honey Locust tree near the gate, and swung by his tail over the wall, intending to tear off its lovely blossoms. But he got a shock when he found that every blossom was in the shape of a cross, which put them beyond his power to blight. He was furious at not being able to destroy its beauty, so he did the worst he could. Keeping away from the cross, he bit a piece out of the edge of every snowy flower leaf, and then jumped back to the Honey Locust tree.

The Locust was so ashamed when she found that she had helped the Devil to do such a mean bit of mischief, so she grew a bristling necklace of strong thorns to wear; they were so long and sharp that no one since, not even the Devil himself has ever been able to climb that Honey Locust tree.

But it was too late to save the Dogwood bloom. The bites were out, and they never healed up again, as you can see to this day.

On a natural history note on this story; the notch that devil bit out in the story is a remnant of the bracts former function as bud scales that protected the flower in the winter.

Know more to see more,

Ranger Billy

Boisterous, Blue and Beautiful

Billy Drakeford — Thu, 13 Feb 2020 14:57:17 GMT

Bluejays are in the Corvidae family, which includes Ravens, Crows, and Magpies. This family includes our largest passerines (perching birds/songbirds) and is without a doubt, taken as a whole, the brains of the U.S. bird world. The term “Bird Brain” is meant as an insult but studies of the Corvid family should turn this insult into a compliment. If you want to read how smart the Corvids are, read the “The Genius of Birds,” by Jennifer Ackerman.

My relationship with jays have changed since I was a boy. They were the annoying guardian of the forest then, scaring away my b.b./.22 gun prey with their raucous “Sneaakk, Sneaakk.” I learned at an early age that the whole forestlistens to bird alarms and responds accordingly. It took me quite a bit longer to learn that I could take advantage of these alarms myself. But that is a tale for another time.

I have been in the woods when I heard a rowdy group of jays coming near, screaming, making hawk sounds, seemingly just to disrupt the woods and have fun. It reminded me of a loud bunch of teenagers at the beach, loud and obnoxious, reveling in their fun and annoyance of others. They take this behavior to a new level when they are mobbing hawks or owls. They gather around the offending bird and scream together and dive at them until the big birds move off or the blue jays tire of it. I have, however, seen some owls and hawks who were Zen masters of ignoring this hubbub around them.

Perhaps like me, you have seen a Jay prey upon a sparrow, warbler or vireo. Watching them use their heavy bill to kill a hatchling never failed to disturb me as a boy, but as I grew older, I adopted the classic James Bond biological theme song of “Live and Let die.” Jays are mainly vegetarians, primarily eating nuts, fruits, and seeds, and the forest is thankful that they are. They are cachers, burying acorns and other nuts for winter use, and the fact that many go unclaimed results in new oaks and beeches each year. It is thought that Bluejays took a major role in quickly reestablishing trees up north when the last glaciers retreated.

Jays are beautiful in that way where you are thunderstruck, standing with your mouth open. Maybe it is just me. I pick up a lot of things in the woods, some that horrified my mother when she found them in the freezer when I was young, and I still find joy in every bluejay feather I find. For fun, check out this bluejay video, from a self-named bird nerd who has some great bird videos. If you don’t think jays are beautiful by the end of the video, then maybe it’s time for a long sabbatical and time of introspection into who you are and why you are like you are.

Know more to see more,

Ranger Billy

Coyotes: Our Furry Forest Ninja

Billy Drakeford — Tue, 14 Jan 2020 21:53:59 GMT

I remember trail running at small county park in Plano, Texas, some years back, and I cut off a side trail and came face-to-face with a coyote coming from the opposite direction. We froze six feet from each other, and he showed no signs of animosity. His yellow eyes possessed equal parts of awareness, curiosity, and intelligence. I don’t know how long this moment lasted ‘til he loped off to the right, but I still remember his eyes so vividly.

I ask kids which animal was known as the trickster/creator/fool/magician by many native American tribes. No answer. When I next compare this animal to ninjas with their skills to live or move through an area unseen, disappear quickly, have a multitude of tricks up their sleeves, yet currently have more reported sightings in Wake County than other N.C. counties, the kids get interested but still have no answers. It proves the old maxim: out of sight out of mind.

Coyotes are indeed among us, in all 100 North Carolina counties, and they have proven themselves unstoppable, unlike the mountain lion and some bears and wolves, which were driven/hunted/trapped out of the East. The smaller, stealthier and more adaptable coyote has withstood all attempts to drive its population down. In the Carolinas, you can hunt coyotes all year with a hunting license and this hasn’t put a dent in their population. Even if you could reduce the local coyote population by 90%, studies have shown that they can replace the population numbers in 5 years.

Rangers here in Umstead see coyotes frequently, but we still tell each other each time we see one. One has a route that comes about 150 yards from my residence; often enough to make me nervous with my four-year-old playing in the yard by herself. Coyotes rarely attack people, but attacks are happening here and there throughout the state, both rabid and non-rabid coyotes. The problem is likely to increase in the future; just read about packs roaming neighborhoods in Charlotte. The following link is about little girl from Illinois that would have been attacked had she not turned around at the last millisecond.

Coyotes are in the season of love right now, and the Alpha couples are still courting or have already mated by now here in the South. Gestation is generally around 63 days, and litter size (4-7) adjusts for population density and food abundance. At my boyhood home in South Carolina, I became good at locating grey fox dens, but to date, the coyotes have skunked me. I continually look in tight brushy areas for a hole entrance being around one foot wide, and I remain hopeful.

Pups can be seen as early as three weeks outside their den, and their parents — and sometimes young from the previous year — feed and care for them. They disperse in autumn or winter with a typical dispersal range from 25 to 100 miles. This is the most dangerous time of their lives, and mortality is frequently high. If they make it to adulthood, they survive by being so adaptable in their ways and diet. According to Mark Elbroch (fantastic author on tracking and animals), a study in Missouri identified 47 animal and 27 plant foods that coyotes eat. That is a diverse diet indeed.

I’ll end this article with a quote you might have heard: “In case of a nuclear holocaust, cockroaches will be the only survivors.” People who know coyotes will probably add them to this list. Enjoy a good audio of coyote sounds that might help you discover that coyotes live close to you.

Know more to see more,

Ranger Billy

The Black Widow

Billy Drakeford — Tue, 17 Dec 2019 15:11:59 GMT

I went to my mom’s house for Thanksgiving in South Carolina, and when I put my dog in the backyard, I turned over a metal pail to use as a water bowl. My fingers were a good 8 inches away from the Black Widow, but it still caused a visceral reaction due to a horrific story I have carried since childhood of my Uncle Archie being bitten in the gonads while in the outhouse. I think about it every time I go by the outhouse at Youth Tent Camp.

Taken by itself, the black widow female is a beautiful spider. The black part is so dark in fact that it seems like a menacing, though slightly gleaming, little black hole. I guess what I am trying to say is that there is a dark night of the soul, and then there is the black widow female dark night of the soul. And then when you are getting pulled into that blackness, the vivid red hourglass appears to repulse and push you away.

On a fun note, Gary Larson of Far Side Comics fame, penned the Spider Personals where you see ad after hilarious ad of Black Widow female personals trying to get a mate. Black Widows are not the only spiders, or insects for that matter, to eat their mate after sealing the deal. Though this does not happen all the time, it occurs frequently. I have often wondered how many human males would still proceed knowing they may be devoured afterwards.

Nowadays, the black widow can be found under rocks, boards, stonewalls, water and electric meters, garages, crawl spaces and other dark and damp areas. They can inhabit closets and live under appliances, furniture and even seldom worn shoes. The best way to not get bitten is to stay alert and wear gloves if you are frolicking about in such places. If you see one and want it to die, then spray insecticide on it and the problem will be solved. You can even spot treat an area if you worry about an infestation. However, please know that black widows in general are the poster children of minding their own business.

If by chance you are bitten, then you may be in for a rough couple of days. Pain may last for eight to twelve hours and the other symptoms may continue for days. The best plan is to get to a medical facility, especially for younger kids and pregnant women. There is antivenin available now for this bite, and doctors will determine if you need it. There are possible side effects from the antivenin.

One arachnologist, W.J. Baerg, in an inspired attempt to further scientific knowledge, coerced a black widow bite him in 1922. His account was documented by Paul Hillyard, the “spider guy” at London Natural History Museum and it reads, “The pain at first was faint but very soon began to increase into a sharp piercing sensation. In less than one hour the pain had reached the shoulder and within two hours the chest was affected; the diaphragm seemed partially paralyzed, breathing and speech became spasmodic. After 5 hours, the pain extended to the legs and after 9 hours I was taken to a hospital. A severe nausea and excruciating pain not only kept me awake but kept me moving throughout the night. I left the hospital after three days but found that recovery was not complete; a feeling of wretchedness remained for a couple of days.”

Know more to see more,

Ranger Billy

Striped |Skunks "Perhaps the Real King of the Forest"

Billy Drakeford — Wed, 13 Nov 2019 21:42:51 GMT

Growing up, my Uncle Joe had some unsavory pet nicknames for me: Hammerhead, Bill de Bob, His Girl Bill and Pepe Le Pew. If you don’t know Pepe, he was the always unwelcome, overly amorous cartoon skunk who did not take no for an answer from his targeted paramours. Not a cartoon for todays times to be sure. Here at Umstead, I have seen two road-killed striped skunks just outside the park but have yet to see a skunk or skunk tracks in the park. I hope they are still here.

I have had some run ins with skunks in the past and for the most part, they have behaved admirably well. One skunk sashayed into my campsite at Hueco Tanks State Park near El Paso and boldly walked to where two buddies and I were eating at the picnic table. We sat stone still, and he came close enough to our legs to feel his fur. It was like a King passing near peasants, like we weren’t there.

Contrary to popular belief, skunks do not spray first and ask questions later. They go through a process of hissing, growling, arching their backs and lifting their tail over their back to display agitation over a perceived threat. They may even stamp their feet and if the threat remains, they arch their bodies unto a U-shape, from which they are ready, willing and able to fire.

I was sprayed while camping one night with my wife, our dog Katie, and our nine-month-old son in Pisgah National forest. The skunk attempted to nose his way into our tent which awakened Katie, a notorious scrapper and small animal killer, who destroyed the tent door to get out and deal with the interloper. She pursued the skunk, a slow animal with a top speed about 10 m.p.h, which stopped about 10 ft. from the tent, turned and fired; effectively stopping my dog on a dime. The spray hit me in the door of the tent with a small dose, but enough. The wife, not even knowing what was happening, was out of the back flap with the boy like some movie ninja, saving both from getting hit. I knew in my heart already but stood confirmed by her uncaring actions about my wellbeing that I was now, a distant second string in her heart.

Katie was rubbing her eyes with her paws, salivating profusely, and I was crying and felt nauseous. The skunk was forgotten by us both, no doubt ambling away, unconcerned. We got out of the “area of stink” and went down to the creek together to try and get the stink off. A task easier said than done. My clothes would be thrown away, but Katie’s fur would stink for a solid three months. Tomato juice, soap, dishwashing liquid, vanilla extract were all equally ineffective. The most effective remedy was a combination of hydrogen peroxide, baking soda, and dawn liquid soap mixed together.

Skunks are a member of the Mustelidae(Weasel) family, all of which have twin anal scent glands about the size of a grape. None of the other members of the weasel family have the skunk strike capabilities. When not trying to steal human food, striped skunks eat insects, worms, berries, carrion, small rodents and many other delicacies. Not many animals will attack a skunk more than once, which proves the saying “It is good to be the king.” If you doubt this claim, these videos of a mountain lion and bear encounter with a skunk may help.

Know more to see more,

Ranger Billy

Let's Hear it for the Birds

Billy Drakeford — Fri, 18 Oct 2019 18:10:20 GMT

Some native american tribes felt that birds were put on this earth to lift the spirits of man. I tend to agree. If you can hear the carolina wren’s exuberant song, see a cardinal, tanager, wood duck or blue jay and not feel better, then you are in a deep funk indeed. On a similar note, when I was stationed in Korea, I was in a valley by myself, lying on my back asking God to send me some sign, a chickadee landed on the branch above me and dropped a twig on my chest. Proof positive right?

Just last week, I was watching a pileated woodpecker on the Oak Rock Trail do its thing working a dead tree for insects and then it flew down to the creek and disappeared below the bank. It stayed just long enough for me to creep over and get close enough so that it could blast out right in front of my face. It flew right to a huge old oak tree, went in a hole and did not come out. I have never seen that during the day and let me tell you my spirits were lifted.

Birds have been around since around the middle of the Jurassic period approximately 150 million years ago. This time until now have allowed birds to evolve a great variety of forms and behaviors, which makes watching them so fun. There are about 8,700ish species of known bird species, and 1800ish species in America. This variety is due to a process called adaptive radiation. This basically means that the form and behavior of birds become modified as they adopt different ways of life. Fossil evidence shows that birds evolved from reptilian ancestors but now a sparrow can live on seeds, something no reptile has ever been able to do.

Of the birds found in Umstead, grebes, herons, and waterfowl are the most primitive. Hawks, owls, and woodpeckers are intermediates, and the passerines, which contain all the songbirds, crows, jays, and blackbirds are the most highly evolved.

If you want to see some of the earliest finds of Archaeopteryx,(Long thought to be the earliest bird and proof of reptile ancestry) go here. It is rather involved but interesting. After about 11 minutes you can see the fossils.

To help lift your spirits, here is Bird Name quiz for you. What is the bird name that matches the following descriptions? Answers are below.

Little League Outfielder
Grave Digger
Coward from the Great Plains
Regal Angler
Sad Letter
Church official
Conversation
Fun in the field
Fast
Crazy
Heavenly humor
Murder a game animal
Angry William

Answers:

Pewee
Shoveler
Prairie chicken
King Fisher
Blue Jay
Cardinal
Chat
Meadowlark
Swift
Cuckoo/ Loon
Godwit
Killdeer
Crossbill

Know more to see more,

Ranger Billy

Black Bears

Billy Drakeford — Thu, 19 Sep 2019 18:31:41 GMT

When it comes to black bears, there are two types of people. People who want to see black bears in the woods and people who hope to God they never see a Black Bear in the woods. Just recently, I was rooting for the black bear sighted in Cary to make it to the park, but alas, it looks like he didn’t make it. The last bear we had in the park was in 2009 but like the Cary bear he was probably just passing through.

Living previously at Mt. Mitchell State Park, my family and I got used to black bears (Ursus americanus). Bears looking into our living room window, bear scat in the yard, screams of the campers behind our house with a bear on their campsite and our inability to let our infant girl stay outside all year when she was napping; as is the Czech way.

Many times, in the winter, I would snow track the bears that were doing a little walkabout back to their den. I never found out what they were doing up and about when they still should be in torpor (they are not true hibernators), but it was exciting tracking.

My most memorable bear encounter was when I was hiking off trail in the mountains of South Carolina. As I gained the top of a ridge, a summer storm cut loose, and the thunder rolled up and down the valley. I sat through the storm with my back on a rock enjoying the drips from the leaves after the rain had stopped. I heard some sound to my right about 25 ft away and a mother bear with two cubs came out of a mountain laurel thicket. She didn’t see me or smell me yet, so I clicked with my mouth the sound you use when you are calling your dog. She froze, gave me an intense stare as if deciding to kill, cripple or just maim me, and went “Whhhooof”. The cubs reacted immediately and climbed a tree to the left. The mom kept staring, and I, probably like most people just before they are mauled, was sure my good intentions would affect a non-violent outcome. She swayed her head left and right three times and just started slowly down the mountain, calling “Whhhhhooof,” once more and the cubs descended effortlessly and quickly caught up. It was, for many reasons, my lucky day.

Black bears are the most common bear in the United States as well as the smallest. Craven county holds the record N.C. black bear weighing 880 lbs. A more average black bear is between 150 and 400 lbs. Black bears are generally not aggressive and will flee from humans in most cases.

Unfortunately, a lot of people have anthropomorphized the bear due to cute movie portrayals, television shows, and feelings that they are indeed teddy bears. The thrill of being close to what seems like a “tame” bear leads people to feed them, adopt them, and feel falsely safe with them. This has caused many lapses in common sense in how you treat a wild animal leading to yearly injuries and rare fatalities. Here is a look at a scary video where the man survived but seemed to lose his ability to speak the Queen’s English.

The question you are probably asking now is “Just how cool is the black bear?” I mean, any animal that might help us explore Mars has got to be Snoopy with sun glasses on cool. Just for fun, check out this article.

Know more to see more,

Ranger Billy

Pine Trees

Billy Drakeford — Thu, 15 Aug 2019 16:00:00 GMT

Growing up, I knew quite a few pines in the woods near my house on a first name basis. I knew them in drought stress, deluge and covered with ice, climbed them in the day and night, shot foes from them in B.B. gun wars, played squirrel, jumping from pine to pine, and even ate edible parts of the pine in efforts to be an Indian. Many was the day where my friend Rudy and I camped beneath Loblolly pines with an occasional breeze making that gentle whishing sound through the needles that is so peaceful and distinctive. Moonlit nights were extra special, and I know from experience what the author of the song “Georgia on my mind,” meant when he penned:

I said Georgia

Georgia

A song of you

Comes as sweet and clear

As moonlight through the pines

Pine needles also helped me through a long cold December night in Kentucky when my army unit had been separated from its rucksacks, which meant we had no gear to pass the night. Through a teenage experiment, Rudy and I built a debris hut entirely of pine needles that was designed to be a shelter and sleeping bag type of thing (think of a structure topped with needles and filled with needles). It was warm enough but scratchy, pokey and made for a very long night. But back to Kentucky, I piled up a massive pile of pine needles and then wormed into the middle and got a blessed 4 or 5 hours of sleep and earned the title of Hooch Master (Hooch is military slang for a shelter among other things) by my squad.

Pines are conifers, cone bearing evergreen trees which first appeared around 225 million years ago - just about the time small mammals were starting to gather steam but still in the Dinosaurs large shadows. The pines flourished quickly due to the epic evolutionary achievement of the seed. The seed contained an embryonic plant with a reservoir of food to give it a boost when compared with spore-bearing plants which had to land in exactly the right place or die. Conifers are gymnosperms, meaning naked seeds that lack a protective covering like an acorn or an apple. On a fun note, gymnasium means a place of naked training (think ancient Greeks).

At Umstead we only have three species of pine here: Loblolly, Short-leafed, and Virginia Pine with Loblolly making up the lion’s share. After the farm properties that made up Umstead were purchased by the federal government in 1934, the old fields were no doubt quickly dominated by Loblolly Pines. These pines were eventually overtaken by slower growing, more shade tolerant hardwoods such as the oaks, hickories, and sweetgums that make up a lot of Umstead today. The only way Loblollys can resist this transition is if fires come through every few years because they are more fire tolerant than the hardwoods. That thick scaly bark keeps the cambium layer (the green growing part of the tree) from cooking in low to medium fires that would kill younger hardwoods. Beeches, with their very thin bark are on the opposite end, being extremely fire intolerant.

So, go out and enjoy the pines or hike the Loblolly trail named in honor of this beautiful pine. Living in the south can make us take the pine for granted, such is its numbers, but if you take the time to really get to know them, soon you will be singing that “Georgia on my Mind” verse with feeling.

Know more to see more,

Ranger Billy

The Turkey Vulture

Billy Drakeford — Mon, 15 Jul 2019 13:02:30 GMT

The more you know about Turkey Vultures, the more you can overlook some of the more unappealing aspects of their life. Ancient Egyptians certainly did as they revered the vulture as the symbol of Nekht, the protector of the queen.

For me however, I remember many times in the late afternoon where I would come across a vulture roost, mostly black vultures by the water, and they would silently and appraisingly stare at me with a calm certainty that one day I would be theirs. The thing that gave me the willies was that I felt that just by being close to them that I was closer to death. Once I even canoed a couple miles further down the Edisto River past a primo campsite because I didn’t want to camp near a roost of vultures. I thought they might know something I didn’t and since there were alligators on the river and I was alone… better safe than sorry I thought.

It is difficult to get past their looks and behaviors to be honest. First, their heads, while functionally understandable for birds reaching into a carcass, look wounded, raw and unfinished, much like those baboons with the flaming red butts. Second, vultures cool off by urinating on their legs, a no doubt effective, though socially suspect process called urohydrosis. Third, vultures use their vomit as an extremely effective weapon, no doubt giving any predator pause with that smell. Sometimes they overeat and cannot get off the ground unless they vomit as well.

You would think that with all the above limiting factors that vultures would have trouble finding a mate but surprisingly they don’t seem to have any trouble. Their nest building is usually a weak attempt at best with most eggs lying on the bare ground. Both parents incubate the eggs for an average of 31 days and they share the feeding duties afterward. I once checked out an old silo and came upon a turkey vulture nest with both parents there. Their cold stares had me easing out the door quickly and brought to mind Edgar Allen Poe’s The Tell Tale Heart where the man was killed merely for “having the eye of a vulture.”

As sanitary engineers they are some of the best, cleaning up the dead animals they find. They can eat animals with diseases such as anthrax, botulism and cholera with their super strong stomach acid that kill these bacteria and toxins. This benefits us because these toxins, once processed by the vultures, can no longer be spread to us.

Vulture fan clubs are probably non-existent, the closest being tourists attending Tibetan Sky Burials, but there is an International Vulture Awareness Day coming up this September the 7th for its 13th year. Perhaps here we all can learn to appreciate one of the most vilified birds in the avian world. Check out the festivities and activities here.

Take this next photo taken by my cousin Scott as a bonus. This is a wild boar he shot and could not find till the following day. I am guessing the boar was not completely dead when the vulture gained access from the rear and he clamped down. Definitely not something you see every day. On the fun side, a native American myth, (can’t remember the tribe), about a deer playing a trick on the vain vulture who was very proud of the feathers on his head. The deer acted dead and when the vulture gained access like the picture shows, the deer clamped down and ran and jumped around, thereby making all the feathers on the vultures head rub off and giving him the present appearance.

Know more to see more,

Ranger Billy

The Gentle Ghost of the Forest

Billy Drakeford — Thu, 13 Jun 2019 20:57:08 GMT

Whitetail deer, a common sight among the paths and roads of Umstead, are the epitome of grace, alertness and beauty. As a boy, growing up in the sandhills of South Carolina, deer were scarce. I can still remember the year when me and a friend were canoeing down Congaree Creek and came upon what we thought was Deer Shangri-La. We based this on the immense volume of deer tracks we saw all over the bank.

We got out to explore and followed tracks out of the woods into a meadow where about 30 goats, some with wicked looking horns, were looking at us. They started coming toward us as one, slowly at first, then picking up speed. If you have seen the start of the ride of the Rohirrim on the hill above Gondor, it was much like that.

We decided to retreat, running toward the safety of the creek, fully knowing they would catch us before we got there. They caught us in short order and fanned out around us, slowing to match our top speed. We started laughing and slowed to a walk, feeling foolish but enjoying the experience of being part of the herd.

If you see the deer here at Umstead, you might wonder about their life history, so here are some basics. A deer’s primary task during the day (24 hour period) is eating. A feeding deer will bite and tear off leaves, twigs or grasses, chew them briefly and swallow them. It can take a deer approximately an hour to fill their ruminating stomach, (imagine a multi-chambered stomach) if there is a lot of food available. The practical beauty of the ruminating stomach is that it can be filled up quickly and then the deer can go to a safe location to process (regurgitate and chew thoroughly) its contents called “cud.”

The best time to see deer at the park is at sunrise and sunset with some bursts of activity around midnight and midday. During the day, deer stay mostly in thicker cover, dividing their time with short excursions to gather food and back to the bedding area for resting, ruminating and grooming.

From my tracking deer in the snow, their bedding areas seem to always to have a good view of the surrounding area like on ridges or slopes. As night approaches, deer will move into more exposed areas to do some heavy feeding interspersed with more bedding and chewing their cud breaks.

Deer in general move between one and four miles a day, but as my Uncle Joe would say, they have rubber band knees, which means of course that they are flexible. Strong weather patterns such as heavy rain, gusty or strong winds, snow and intense cold can limit their movements and have them bed in protected areas for longer periods. I have also seen loose/wild dogs chase deer for miles outside their home range or through neighborhoods.

Besides automobiles, deer have some predators that prey upon them in our park. Coyotes are the main predator, but they mainly prey on the young. Some research from North and South Carolina have coyotes accounting for up to 50% of the fawn population but this could be habitat specific. Attempts to control coyote populations through yearlong open seasons with no bag limits have been ineffectual. Bobcats prey on fawns and foxes have been known to take a deer fawn as well, however infrequently.

If you are lucky, quiet and still you may see fawns together like I did playing a game best described by my father as “Grab Butt”. It was a hilarious game of chase filled with tight circles, crashes into bushes interspersed with spirited jumps and kicks. I watched them for about 15 minutes till I laughed out loud and ruined it. (Check out fawns playing here). Another time, I watched my son of six at the time and a doe at Mt. Mitchell State Park having some sort of bonding moment as she walked closer and closer to him and when she got within a foot of my son, he panicked and gave out a loud “Yahhhhhhhh!”, scaring the doe, me and effectively ruining the picturesque moment.

Good luck with making your own memories with the Gentle Ghost of the Forest!

Know more to see more,

Ranger Billy

Hepatica

Billy Drakeford — Wed, 15 May 2019 20:04:40 GMT

The Silent One

If you are like me, and love plants, you definitely have your favorites. Hepatica and I have been friends ever since I saw them for the first time outside limestone caves of Santee State Park in South Carolina. My Uncle Munsy turned me on to the caves, but the flowers kept me coming back every year to catch up. Each year I would monitor the population, but mainly I would just sit, visit, and admire. (Caution: Granola-head statement ahead!) Hepatica, with its amazing color and presence, made me feel it was sentient and had something to tell me. I know how that sounds, but it just resonated with me, and I sat for a long time with them each year.

The Chippewa Indians called the plant gabisanikeag, which meant “it is silent.” I liked that name when I read it; it felt right somehow, like they exactly caught the plant’s personality. I know you might be thinking I am not just a plant lover but a flower child. Seeing that I only lived three years in the sixties, it is a stretch. On the other hand, perhaps that is all it took in those heady times. Nonetheless, I liked Hepatica so much that I wrote poetry about them. I am, I assure you, valiantly trying to refrain from sharing.

Ephemeral flowers found at Umstead State Park such as Hepatica, Trout Lily, Windflower, Bloodroot, and Pennywort harken the lengthening daylight and seem designed to lift our spirits after winter. Their lifestyle, however, is rather down and dirty, to flower before the trees leaf out, so they take advantage of the late winter and early spring sunlight to photosynthesize and build up stores of carbohydrates in their roots to last another year.

Spring ephemerals, however, cannot count on insects for fertilization due to the cold weather they often endure, so most of them, if not all, can self-fertilize. These ephemerals evolved with ants in a relationship called myrmechory. The seed of many ephemerals have elaisosomes, which is a nutritious addition on the end of the seeds that ants will take into their anthill and eat, discarding the rest of the viable seed on a trash heap, which provides a fertile and friendly place for a plant to start as well as giving seed predators less access to the seeds.

Hepatica and other ephemerals are found throughout the park, and a searching eye will find them on the stream banks or moist areas. If you need help finding them, I will guide you to them. If you don’t take to them like I did, I will try not to think less of you, but if that is indeed the case, it may be time for some serious introspection on your end.

I fought against adding the poem, but it overpowered me. Circa August 1997, and before I knew its name. The silent one. I will ask my parents if we have some Chippewa blood.

From the cave flows a clear cold stream

With high banks growing and guarding the little green

Sentinels that signal Winter’s end.

They sing in whispers, slow but sure

Gently tickling my ear and spirit

The feather soft song of the Hepatica.

Gently blue, not quite of the sky

For wood wanderers and elves to know

Patience and many returns reward me

This bringing of spring to the land and my heart.

And from heart to you, and you, and you

The beautiful silent sharing.

The beautiful silent singing

The cloud soft song, of the Hepatica

Know more to see more,

Ranger Billy

The Annual Umstead Coalition Photography Contest – Catch the Spirit of William B. Umstead State Park by Arianne Hemlein

Fri, 03 May 2019 17:01:04 GMT

Walking through Umstead State Park at dawn after a rainy evening, you are struck by the way the early rays of the sun are creating tiny rainbows in rain drops suspended from a low branch, so you snap a picture with your phone. Or maybe a few months ago, while hiking along Loblolly, you noticed a deer and her fawn along the riverbank, and you had just enough time to capture an image before they darted off into the cover of the woods. Perhaps you photographed the stunning efeects of an early spring snowstorm blanketing the trails in white. Photos like these are meant to be shared and appreciated, not hidden away in your camera, phone or computer.

The annual Umstead Coalition Photography Contest - “Catch the Spirit of William B. Umstead state Park” showcases local talent, both amateur and professional, and highlights meaningful moments and beautiful sights available to visitors to Umstead throughout the year. Winning photos will grace the pages of the park’s 2020 calendar, which will be available for sale in the visitor center.

Delve through your photos to see if you have something to share. Submit entrees in one or all of three categories including, flora and fauna, park structures & history, and people engaged in park activities.

Youth photographers under the age of 16 are encouraged to participate as well and will be judged in their own categories.

Remember there are 12 months to every year and 12 calendar pages dedicated to each month, so consider submitting pictures of the icy cold, and starkly gray days of winter as well as the sunny, active days of summer. Make sure that your image has a high enough definition to be enlarged without losing clarity and detail, because your image just might end up being selected to hang on display in the Visitor Center for all to enjoy before appearing in the calendar.

If you don’t feel like you have any photos worthy of submission, why not plan a visit to the park with the sole purpose of searching out original beauty, interesting composition, color, and contrast. I make a point of having my phone or camera on me every time I venture onto the trail. You never know when you might stumble upon an amazing fungus, unexpected wildlife, or a misty morning of incredible beauty.

We’d love to see your unique visions of your backyard park and honor and share them. The deadline for submissions is May 26. You can see winning images from past year, find photo submission guidelines, and registration details here.

- Arianne Hemlein

Our Venomous Snake of Umstead

Billy Drakeford — Mon, 22 Apr 2019 17:52:50 GMT

Snakes have an extreme biblical bad rap; mentioned over eighty times in extremely negative connotations. After all, it was a serpent that offered Eve the “apple” in the Garden of Eden and caused the curse on all snakes followed by the subsequent curse on humanity for eternity. Imagine, if you will, carrying the weight of the downfall of humanity on your back. That is bad press on a level that is almost impossible to come back from.

As an example, my Grandmother Jenny was a saint and should have been canonized, Catholic or not. This angelic woman of such a gentle, sweet, kind, compassionate and loving nature would turn into a murderous hoe-wielding ninja in the presence of snakes. She would chop any snake in half, quarters, eighths and sixteenths with a vengeance and feel justified like she had done the community and the world in general, a favor. For her and countless others, killing snakes was the unspoken 11th commandment.

Here at Umstead State Park, we are trying to buck the tide of negative press and look charitably and dare I say admiringly, on our legless friends. We will look at the only venomous snake found in the park, the copperhead, which also is the most common venomous snake in the majority of North Carolina.

The copperhead, as well as the cottonmouth and rattlesnakes are all pit vipers with movable fangs in the front of their mouth that actually fold against the roof of their mouths when not injecting venom into prey. What makes these snakes state-of-the-art is the pits that look like holes between the eye and nostril. These pits are heat sensing organs that sense infrared radiation which is the heat produced by their prey. The downside of these amazing organs is that snakes probably have the shortest game of hide and go seek imaginable.

To identify a copperhead, look for a heavy bodied snake with a light brown body and darker hourglass shaped crossbands (some say they look like large Hershey kisses.) The top of their head is normally a solid coppery brown. In leaf litter or grass their coloring is extremely effective. Copperhead babies look like the adults but have a yellow tip to their tail.

Copperheads are found in the majority of terrestrial habitats and eat a wide variety of prey that consists of mice, voles, other snakes, frogs, lizards, birds, and even insects.

The bad news about copperheads is that they are responsible for about 80% of the snakebites on any given year in N.C. The good news is that most of those bites are avoidable when you simply leave the copperhead alone and do not mess with it. Their bite is rarely ever fatal to humans but very painful. Perhaps more painful is the medical bill if you have to get antivenom which may take six to eight vials at $2000 to $3000 a pop. Ouch indeed.

It is time to stop hating on our snake friends and appreciate how awesome they are. With a little awareness and restraint, we can all get along. View this video for a fun look at snake names.

Know more to see more,

Ranger Billy

How many copperheads do you see?
Answer: Four

Walk/Run/Bike for Umstead Includes Something for Everyone by Arianne Hemlein

Fri, 29 Mar 2019 14:54:52 GMT

At sunrise on an upcoming April morning, volunteers will gather in a grassy meadow near Umstead State Park to erect an entertainment stage, festival tents, educational displays, and a finish line with flags waving in the breeze. Musicians will begin to play as the first cars arrive. Soon the meadow will fill with over 400 walkers, runners, and cyclists of all ages and abilities waiting for the signal to make their way into the park on bike and bridle trail.

This is the Walk/Run/Bike for Umstead, taking place this year on Saturday, April 13 from 8am-1:30pm. This is also your opportunity to enjoy outdoor group exercise, arts and entertainment, delicious food-truck fare, and the chance to win numerous prizes — all while supporting your backyard park.

There is definitely something for everyone at this annual event, whether you choose to get a little exercise or not. You can choose to walk or run along the beautiful four-mile course; or if cycling is your thing, join the 12-mile intermediate mountain bike ride. Triangle Off-Road Bike Club (TORC) will also offer a guided 4-mile ride designed for beginners. Prizes will be awarded to the top four finishers in several age categories in the walk/run event, with top finishers winning $100 gift certificates.

Once you cross the finish line, there’s much more to enjoy. If you’ve worked up an appetite, you can snack on complimentary hummus and pita bread, trail mix cookies, fruit, vegetarian protein bars and more. Then shop for hand crafted pottery, jewelry, and original art. While enjoying the educational exhibits, make sure to listen for your names as dozens of door prize winners are announced. You will also have the opportunity to bid on gift cards for dinners, pet sitting, ballet tickets, artwork and much more in the silent auction. To see a listing of prizes, vendors, and entertainers, visit the Walk/Run/Bike event page.

Register by Sunday, April 7 to take advantage of the early bird registration discount. Not only will you support the park with your registration fees, but funds raised will go towards restoration of the historic cabins and mess halls, invasive plant control, and environmental education for your wonderful state park.

by Arianne Hemlein

Early Bird Registration Discount through Sunday April 7

Online registration through Thursday April 11. On-site registration Friday April 12 (5-7pm) and event day April 13 (8-9am)

Honoring Rod Broadbelt, Friend of the Forest

Tue, 26 Mar 2019 14:18:33 GMT

Rod Broadbelt is a legend among Umstead hikers. For two decades, he’s led long hikes — up to 20 miles — through the ruins in Umstead State Park, encouraging and challenging outdoor enthusiasts to learn about and enjoy the history and beauty of the place. Now there’s a park bench dedicated to Rod at Reedy Creek Lake — a well-deserved honor for a true “Friend of the Forest.”

The 80-plus friends and family who gathered for the bench dedication took photos, shared hugs, and traded more than one story about Rod’s legendary speed on the trail. Ranger Billy joked, “I’m thinking all these pictures, Rod, are probably because they haven't seen your face very much on your hikes, as much as your backside and your elbows.” Fellow hiker Pete Vandeberg quipped: “I just remember: ‘Five minute lunch, then you got to get moving again!’”

Rod acknowledged his need for speed, even when he was by far the oldest person on the hike. “I think I’m actually a frustrated want-to-be drill sergeant,” Rod said. “I like to holler at people: ‘Pick up the pace! Move it! Move it!’”

Rod came to North Carolina in the late 1990s from Pennsylvania, and searched for a good hiking club. He couldn’t find any that did more than 6.5 miles, so he began leading his own 20-milers “because nobody else was doing it.” He was determined to share his love of the forest with others.

Joe Miller, Chief Exploration Officer at GetGoingNC.com and former N&O “Take It Outside” columnist, remembers one hike a couple of years ago.

“It was raining hard the morning of his 8-mile, off-trail hike,” Joe said. “Rod was ecstatic; even though it was pouring, there was no lightening in the mix (that was the only thing that would scuttle a hike: lightening). Three people showed up expecting a hike, and by gum Rod was going to take them on a hike.”

In part because of his unbridled enthusiasm, Rod’s hikes became wildly popular. But as Pete says, “More than leading hikes, he led people to the park.” Rod would recruit people from anywhere — the gym, his church, his neighborhood, the trails — and get them out into the woods.

“I want people to grow in their outdoor concern and their physical, spiritual and mental health,” Rod said. “It’s been a real pleasure and privilege for me to learn about people who could only do a five-mile hike to begin with who ended up doing 15 or 20 miles. It’s a real pleasure to see them develop and grow, and learn to appreciate God’s beautiful creation out here, and what a wonderful park we have. To me this park has been like heaven on earth.”

Rod’s favorite areas of the park are the CCC camp, the Boy Scout camp, and the Genevieve Woodson Log Cabin Theatre. He loved the daffodils that mark the old homesteads, the ruins that dot the landscape, and the natural beauty of it all. As Ranger Billy said, Rod “opened a lot of doors to the beautiful parts of this park to a lot of people.”

Rod’s advice to future hikers? “Keep on moving. Use it or lose it. Onward and upward.”

So come out to the park. Move it or lose it. Enjoy the daffodils. Learn about the ruins. And after you’ve been hiking for a few miles, head over to the bench at Reedy Creek Lake, take a (short) rest, and say a word of thanks to Rod Broadbelt, “Friend of the Forest.”

by Nancy Pekarek

Photo credits: Gil Johnson

Rod, his wife, and family and friends celebrate Rod's newly-dedicated bench at Reedy Creek Lake.

Tracking

Billy Drakeford — Wed, 13 Mar 2019 14:37:41 GMT

My highest aspiration as a young boy was to be like an Apache scout, looking at one track and being able to tell the animal, the sex, how long since the animal came by and what the animal was doing. Growing up in the sandhills in S.C, identifying animal tracks, trying to follow them and deciphering their movements became part of my DNA.

My knowledge of tracks was hard earned with more unsolved mysteries than solved. Some mysterious tracks and signs took years to decipher, but my base of knowledge grew by watching animals and then going over to look at their tracks as well as reading all animal and nature books available. Learning this way, you don’t forget things, which is why I am highly dubious of all the iPhone apps that make it too easy/quick to identify birds, plants, and tracks. What is learned so effortlessly is quickly forgotten. (Stepping off my soapbox now)

My best friend and I would track each other, doing our best to lay down a confusing trail which would throw the other off. We soon upped the ante by trying to ambush one another with a well-placed BB gun shot while the other was following the trail. This game did wonders for paying attention to the terrain while tracking. The few times that it snowed in S.C., we tracked and harassed all the local wildlife, finding their dens and lays and feeding areas. It was almost too easy, those wonderful days.

Then in 1978, Reader’s Digest did a condensed version of The Tracker, a true story of Tom Brown Jr, a man who had lived my dream as a child and was trained to track by an Apache. To say I was inspired is an understatement on the level of saying Yellowstone National Park is a so-so place to visit. I vowed, much like Scarlet O’ Hara in the fading evening light, that as God is my witness, I shall meet this man or die.

It took me about four years to make this happen when I attended Tom Brown’s school at the age of 18 up in Asbury, New Jersey. He was an enigma and not Mr. Friendly, but the real deal when it came to tracking. My passion for tracking only increased during the week I spent at his school, though it was a little surreal to be surrounded by a group of people who were into all the things I was and who looked at me as normal. It was a nice contrast to my brother’s girlfriends who looked at me like a two-legged, hoofless pig when I came in from tracking.

Now skip some 30-odd years and I am still tracking. Umstead State Park has a lot to offer in that department. On a 70-yard stretch of Crabtree creek, I saw these tracks. Enjoy the pictures, make a guess of what they are, and check your guesses with the answers at the bottom. Most importantly, get out tracking yourself. There is no better way to connect with nature.

Please email me at william.drakeford@ncparks.gov with any pictures of tracks that have stumped you, or if you want to find some good places to go tracking. One warning though: it can be highly addictive. If you want to see great trackers in action, go here.

The more you know, the more you see,

Ranger Billy

Coyote

Deer

Raccoon

Otter

Otter with 13 inches gait

Otter Roll Area

Great Blue Heron

Beaver Tracks

Beaver Again

Beaver Scent Mound

Grey Squirrel

Muskrat

Robin

Frog unknown species

Can you see the muskrat, coon, and coyote tracks?

The Umstead 100 - An Epic Run in Your Backyard Park by Arianne Hemlein

Thu, 28 Feb 2019 23:25:36 GMT

"100 miles provides the ability for me to push myself physically, mentally and emotionally. Everyone’s journey is different and even mine is every time I run it. Being able to experience this with others and everyone being so positive is why I keep coming back again and again." - Randall "Woody" Woods, a repeat finisher at Umstead100

"If you can plan for, train for, and finish a 100 miles; you get to see that no matter what life throws at you, it can be handled the same way you finished the 100, one step at a time." – Rhonda Hampton, Umstead100 Race Director

Starting at 6am on Saturday, April 6, 250 courageous runners will attempt to power their bodies through 100 miles of multi-use trail winding through the woods of William B. Umstead State Park in less than 30 hours. What will they get for this superhuman feat? A belt buckle. Who does it? Why do they do it? Can you do it? First, experience the Umstead 100 for yourself either by volunteering or by visiting the park during the run.

In order to better understand this race, let’s go back to the beginning twenty-five years ago. The late Blake Norwood conceived of and founded the race with three goals in mind: to “conduct a quality, runner oriented event; to encourage the growth of ultra running in North Carolina and the Triangle area in particular; and to produce a race that offered first time hundred milers a reasonable chance of success. These have remained the guiding philosophy of the Umstead 100 to this day.” Read more here. Current race director, Rhonda Hampton, says Blake Norwood would also want it known that the race "could not have made it off the ground without, his running buddies - Tom Newnam, Jerry Dudeck, Charlie Barnes, and Blake’s wife, Myra Norwood".

According to the race website, this ultra run is unique, because it provides an opportunity for new ultra runners to make the leap to long distance runs without “the difficult terrain, heat, and more challenging cut-off times of other endurance events.”

So you might be curious. Who is the typical Umstead 100 runner? That’s easy - there is no typical runner. Of the 250 runners, most are over the age of 40 with the oldest runner being 78 and the youngest runner 22 years of age this year. Thirty-three states are represented and 4 countries. Some participants are repeat offenders, having run it a number of times, while others are first timers (86 of the participants this year). There is no doubt that someone running this distance must be in excellent physical shape, but a lot of the required attributes are mental, including determination, attitude, willpower, and stamina.

Race director, Rhonda Hampton, says anyone can do this race. When I look at her skeptically, she says, “If you can run one mile, you can run two. If you can run 5 miles, you can run ten. If you can run a half marathon, you can run a full; and so on. It’s about time on your feet.”

Why do they do it? The buckle is nice, but I don’t think that’s the reason. Finisher Randall Woods puts it this way, “There’s a certain rush, some might say borderline craziness, to submit myself to such pain and suffering. There’s just something about being able to push through all of that and finishing 100 miles.” I must admit, when I first saw the participants on a cold and dreary Sunday morning in the park, I wondered what they were running from. It is true that running can provide relief from drug addiction, alcohol abuse, and traumatic life events, but ultra runners would likely say they are running towards something: towards their highest potential, peace of mind, a relationship with nature, health, and community.

Ken Bell, Umstead 100 finisher, puts it simply, “Training for ultras helps me maintain a healthy lifestyle - eating well, exercising, and managing sleep and stress. ” Race director Rhonda explains it this way, “It’s like rebooting a computer. If your mind or body is not running right, a hundred mile run will certainly reset it.”

Can you do it? After getting the green light from your doctor, Rhonda suggests simply increasing time on feet. You don’t have to be fast. She says you can finish the race in 24 hours by maintaining a 15-minute per mile pace (that includes rest breaks, etc.). She says the key to successful training is balance, moderation, core work, and listening to the body. You can find more useful tips on training for your first endurance run on the race website.

Not ready to run 50-100 miles? Volunteer or crew. The race prides itself on treating volunteers like gold. It is part of the mission. Volunteer opportunities include food prep, cleanup, traffic control, equipment moving, and pacing. You can register here. David G. describes the volunteer experience beautifully in his post here. In it he says, “It was such an honor to work alongside a great group of volunteers who were out there for one reason, to see runners succeed”.

If you choose to get right into the thick of things as a volunteer pacer, be prepared to do whatever the runner needs you to do. Your runner may suffer from mental and physical exhaustion, dehydration, and digestive problems as the miles pile up. Your job is to keep them going. Asked for tips for pacers, Ken Bell, ultra runner and Umstead 100 finisher says, “We all have different needs at different times during a race, so good communication is important. Always stay positive, don't take anything personally when your runner is tired and cranky, and lie liberally about how good your runner looks!”

If you are entertaining the idea of running the race yourself, get out there and start running. Your one mile might just turn into 100, and one day you might sport a fancy Umstead 100 belt buckle. Whether you are a runner, a devoted Umstead State Park visitor, or dedicated volunteer, come out to the park on April 6-7 to witness an incredible physical and mental feat.

Let’s end with a few words of encouragement from Cash Coyne (yes, his real name), the 2014 Umstead 100 runner who collided with a deer between miles one and two, got up, and still finished the 50-mile option: “If you can’t be first in a race, be memorable. When you get knocked back, you just have to keep moving forward.”

Leave it to Beaver - Spotting Beavers in Umstead

Sun, 17 Feb 2019 17:11:22 GMT

You can’t go to any of our ponds here at Umstead without seeing signs of North America’s largest native rodent, the beaver. These signs can include their large tracks, downed trees, stripped limbs around their feeding areas, scent mounds, dams (there’s a 4000 ft. long one in New Hampshire), and trails that lead up to 100 yards from the water. Don’t bother looking for beaver lodges here at the park, because all of our beavers use bank lodges with underwater entrances.

The healthy population we have now is relatively recent as the beaver was trapped out of most of the East coast by 1900 to feed the fashion frenzy for beaver hats. Growing public concern for the decline of the beaver and other wildlife populations pushed recovery efforts that included live-trapping beavers and successfully reintroducing them into most of their former range. On a fun note; in some western states like Idaho, their reintroduction plans included parachuting beavers to the backcountry in boxes designed to break open upon impact. See the classic 1950 style documentary involving this here.

The Beaver is truly a marvel with its adaptations for aquatic life. Its head and nose are higher up on the skull than other mammals, so they can see and breathe at the surface of the water with minimal exposure. The nose and ears have membranes (think ear and nose plugs) that close off to prevent water entry. The eyes have clear nictitating membranes (think of built in goggles) that close over the eye when under water. Their hind feet are webbed (built in flippers) and it has lips behind its incisors, so it can carry sticks in its mouth without water going down the throat. The tail serves as a rudder (a built in paddle), as a warning device that slaps the water with incredible volume, and as fat storage for the winter. Trappers used to relish fried beaver tail back in the fur-bearing days. In the 17thcentury, the Catholic Church declared that the beaver was a fish due to the scales on its tail, which meant it could be on the menu during Lent. As for its diving ability, the beaver can stay under water for about 15 minutes and has been documented to swim about a half mile while underwater. This sounds like a long time, but one man just recently broke the human record by staying underwater for 24 minutes and three seconds.

Beavers are social animals consisting of a family unit: a male and female with offspring from two breeding seasons. At the end of the second year, mom and dad drive the two-year olds away, and they are homeless for a while until they find their own area. This is a very vulnerable time for these young beavers, and mortality is highest during this time. A beaver’s day, in general, seems to revolve around feeding, dam repair, and preparing to feed by cutting trees down or harvesting aquatic plants. Beavers can literally eat themselves out of house and home by harvesting all the suitable food from 300 to 600 feet from the water. They then abandon this area and usually move upstream or downstream.

To see these amazing animals at the park means putting in early morning and late evening hours.

Ranger Billy

Get your Green Exercise with Fitness Groups in Umstead State Park

Mon, 04 Feb 2019 18:20:29 GMT

by Arianne Hemlein

“I don't know how to describe it...it's just pure fun running through huge puddles and crossing swollen creeks.” – Stéphane Daniel, Organizer for the Raleigh Trail Runners

“Umstead provides a variety of possibilities including hiking, running, and biking in a natural setting that is conveniently located right in town. All of these things can be enjoyed without the worries of traffic, noise, or pollution; or being stuck in a gym.” – John Berar, outdoor exercise enthusiastic and frequent visitor to Umstead

Committed to improving your fitness this year? Lucky for you, you can meet your green exercise goals in the free outdoor gym sitting in your backyard – William B. Umstead State Park. Green exercise refers to combining fitness with a love and appreciation for natural outdoor spaces. It’s not surprising that recent studies indicate a clear link between improved mental and physical well-being and outdoor activities.

These benefits include convenience, a connection with mother nature, reduced depression and anxiety from the release of beneficial “mood elevating hormones,” a vitamin D boost, and a lack of membership or entrance fees. Click here for the science. Simply put, being out of doors is good for body and soul.

Whether you are just starting a fitness routine, looking for a quick bike, run or hike, or training for an endurance event, Umstead State Park boasts miles of groomed multi-use and single-track trails convenient to metropolitan areas as well as a variety of outdoor-oriented social fitness groups. These exercise support groups provide camaraderie, accountability, increased motivation, and encouragement. You can find Umstead based activities listed on the Meetup app (see links below).

Explore the beautiful wooded trails with one of several active hiking groups including Triangle Hiking and Outdoors Group, Life is a Hike, and Umstead State Park Support, among others. The recommended pace and fitness level are usually listed in the event posting. Umstead State Park Support also occasionally offers senior hikes, history walks, and newborn-stroller hikes. If the popularity of these events is any indication, these outings must be enjoyable.

If you’re looking for even more of a challenge, and are interested in running on the single track trails, check out Raleigh Trail Runners. This group is devoted to running “off the beaten path” on rugged trails like Sycamore, Company Mill and Loblolly, so be prepared for the challenge of roots, rocks, and elevation changes. RTR organizer, Stéphane Daniel, says new members should be able to run four trail miles prior to joining an event. Organizers will encourage newcomers and do their best to accommodate a variety of paces.

Asked what he enjoys about running in the park, Stéphane says, “trail running is much easier on the legs and feet than running on pavement, and you'll very likely avoid all those road running repetitive injuries. But the biggest draw is running in the forests and being one with nature. You never know what surprise you might come upon in a trail run like the very common sightings of creatures.”

I couldn’t have said it better myself.

The multi-use trails are also perfect for bike rides. The elevation changes, particularly on Turkey Creek trail are sure to give you a cardio work out.

If you are goal oriented when it comes to exercise, consider training for one of the annual fitness events held in Umstead: The Umstead Marathon on March 2; Walk, Run Bike for Umstead on April 13; or the Gravel Grinder 50/100 mile bike race Maybe you’ll even find yourself so enthusiastic about green exercise, that you’ll sign up for the Umstead 100 mile race. Don’t get any crazy ideas just yet. Registration for the 100 is closed this year, but plenty of volunteer opportunities remain for you to dip in and test the waters. The race director, Rhonda Hampton, says volunteers who pace other runners often end up as future participants. I’ll tell you a lot more about this race in my March post.

Want to check off two of your new year’s resolutions at once? Combine fitness with volunteer work with the park staff and Umstead Coalition events, also listed on Meetup.

With these groups you can find social connection, support for your goals, accountability, camaraderie, and safety. Shared fitness goals are successful fitness goals. Ultra runner, Rhonda Hampton, says she receives at least one “biological gift” on each visit to the park whether it’s running across an old friend on the trail, sighting wildlife, or a beautiful wildflower. So head, out to your backyard park to make friends, stay sane, shed pounds cheaply, and smile more all while staying fit.

Note: The multi-use trailhead access from the North Harrison Avenue (Cary) entrance is now open.

Raleigh Trail Runners

https://www.meetup.com/raleightrailrunners

7miles by 7am on Thursdays and Fridays

9am Saturday Trail runs with varying mileage

Umstead State Park Support

https://www.meetup.com/umsteadcoalition/

Feb 14, 20 10am Senior Hike

Feb 25 3pm Newborn Stroller hike

Life Is a Hike

https://www.meetup.com/Life-is-a-Hike/

Check the schedule for upcoming events

Raleigh recreational hikers

https://www.meetup.com/raleighrecreationalhikers/

Sun Feb. 10 8:30am Old Reedy Creek Trailhead

Triangle Hiking and Outdoors Group

Check the schedule for upcoming events

https://www.meetup.com/Adventures/

A Walk into the Past in Umstead

Thu, 03 Jan 2019 18:28:54 GMT

-by Arianne Hemlein

It's the beginning of a new year in Umstead State Park, and except for a few stubborn beeches, the trees are bare. Since January is a time for reflection on the past and resolutions for the future, let’s take a quick look back at the history of our park.

You’ve probably seen some of the most obvious reminders of the past - the family graveyards and the millstone, but did you know that there is also an outhouse, a rusting shell of an automobile, and crumbling brick home foundations within the park?

The next time you walk along the Company Mill trail, envision fields of struggling cotton plants, modest homes, and a busy grist mill along the riverbank. As you cross the green bridge spanning Crabtree Creek, imagine the sound of boys laughing and splashing in the water at the nearby site of the Camp Craggy Boy Scout camp, demolished in 1938. The stone steps still remain.At one time, these woodlands were home to three grist mills, struggling farms, and a number of families. In 1934, federal and state agencies bought this submarginal land to create the park.

With the labor provided by The Civilian Conservation Corps and the Works Progress Administration, the park opened to the public in 1937. From 1950-1966, segregation extended to Umstead with two separate areas for whites and African-Americans.

Want to know more about the past? You can read Joe Grissom’s account of growing up on the land here. While Stories in Stone is currently out of print, you can learn a lot by listen to WUNC’s discussion of the book featuring Joe Grissom and the Umstead Coalition’s Jean Spooner. Then head out to the park to see what you can find. Winter just happens to be the perfect time to explore without the nuisance of insects and humidity.

As for a resolution for 2019, consider spending more time out-of-doors in nature and helping the Umstead Coalition to protect our park for future generations to enjoy. Did you know that Amazon will donate .5% of eligible items purchased by you to the Umstead Coalition? All you have to do is click on the link on the Umstead Coalition homepage. It’s really simple and costs you nothing.

Fall Treasure Hike

Wed, 07 Nov 2018 21:46:33 GMT

- by Arianne Hemlein

It's early November and the flora and fauna of Umstead State Park are preparing for winter. The rays of the rising sun warm the crisp autumn air, lifting tendrils of fog from the pond on Loblolly Trail. Acorns and leaves rain to the ground along the shore. As you enjoy the park this fall, look for signs of seasonal change. It's a treasure hunt of sorts.

Of course, changes in leaf color are the most obvious and anticipated indication of the seasonal shift. Take time to notice which tree types are first to color and and drop their foliage, and be aware of those that retain theirs well into winter. Beech and oak leaves are those you see still hanging on when the snow falls. You might even have a contest to see who can find the most beautifully colored leaf or try to catch one as it falls - it's harder than it sounds.

Breath in the earthy scent of fallen leaves.

Notice all the tree nuts falling to the ground, thereby providing sustenance for deer, squirrels, and other woodland animals. Watch the squirrels scrambling around to add to their winter stores and build nests.

If you hear honking, look up to see geese migrating south in wobbling "v"-shapes like arrow tips pointing in the direction of their winter homes. While you are looking, observe the deeper blue of the autumn sky.

Suggestions for fall treasure hike activities for all ages:Fall walks are filled with treasure. I make goal of discovering at least two interesting finds on each walk. While searching like a nature detective, I tend to see and appreciate things I might otherwise overlook. Interested in adding excitement to your next fall hike? Try one of my suggestions below. Click on these links to learn more about the seasonal leaf cycle and why the sky appears more blue in autumn. Whatever you do, take time out to enjoy the seasonal beauty of your park before the real chill of winter sets in!

Pinecone Bird Feeders

Collect pinecones to make into bird feeders. Simply attach a string to the pinecone, spread peanut butter or lard over the surface, roll in birdseed, and hang from a tree in your yard.

Leaf Print Cards

Gather fallen leaves to create leaf print cards. Just paint a leaf while holding it by the stem, press it to cardstock, cover with newspaper and gently rub. Remove paper to see your print.

Magic Wands

Search for smooth, bark-free sticks to use as "magic wands". Add glitter paint or wrap and tie bright ribbons to the end.

Nature Detective Scavenger Hunt

Make a list of things to look for on your walk such as hickory nuts (which can be floated like boats), squirrels, mushrooms, and star moss.

There’s No Typical Day for an Umstead Park Ranger

Wed, 17 Oct 2018 16:10:53 GMT

-by Arianne Hemlein

When Umstead Park Ranger Billy Drakeford was a child, he loved being in the woods. He couldn’t have imagined a better job than one in park service, and that hasn’t changed one bit.

The fact is, there is no “typical” day. While each ranger is responsible for different facilities and focuses on different areas of park service, some general responsibilities include education and outreach to schools through program offerings, trail maintenance, light law enforcement, medical response, and keeping abreast of the plants and animals (including non-native invasive species). The lack of a steady routine is one of the positive aspects of the job in Billy’s opinion.

Getting kids and adults excited about nature is another perk. Billy feels strongly about the importance of allowing kids to play in the great outdoors, getting muddy in the streams, identifying plants, and searching for animal tracks. He says, “You can’t expect kids to care about the environment unless they get that connection as a kid.” Not only will they learn to care about and protect wilderness areas, but nature will give back to them as well. If you are interested in the benefits of exposure to nature, he suggests reading, Last Child in the Woods.

Maybe your child is interested in becoming a park ranger. The Junior Ranger program may be for them. Billy urges kids to attend one of the educational programs offered by the park staff. They can even earn a badge by participating.

If you have always harbored a secret dream of being a ranger, as I did, Billy says a degree in the biological sciences is preferred, but not required. A familiarity with tractors, chainsaws, and basic tool use is important, along with excellent interpersonal skills for positive interactions with park visitors and program facilitation.

If you just love spending time in the park, you can get a taste of ranger work by participating in ongoing volunteer opportunities with the park staff or with the Umstead Coalition. You can help to build a trail, for example, and feel a pride of ownership next time you take a hike.

“This park is your big, beautiful backyard,” Billy says. Bring your kids out to play and encourage their love and appreciation of nature. After all, they will be the future stewards of this park.

Park Ranger Billy’s Interesting Facts and Suggestions for Visitors

Did you know?

All rangers and the superintendent live within the park. Billy’s house was built in the 30’s by the Civilian Conservation Corps and used to be the visitor’s center.
Much of the park used to be bare, cleared farmland. Billy suggests reading Stories in Stone, a history of Umstead and the Cedar Fork Township community. Knowing the history will give you a deeper experience of the park.
Yes, coyotes live in the park, but most people will never see them. They tend to steer clear of humans.

Suggestions for being a good park owner…

Keep your dog on a leash. Many people are frightened of dogs. Being approached by dogs off leash is the number one complaint the staff hears. Rangers can and do give citations for dogs off leash. The fines and court costs can be upwards of $300.
If a trail has been closed and rerouted, there is a good reason. Usually slopes have become too steep and unstable due to erosion. Please follow trail reroutes, and allow the old trail to recover.
Respect park hours, and make sure you have enough time to complete your hike and return to your car before closing. The rangers have to deal with visitors in the park after hours as much as twice a week.
Join the Umstead Coalition and support various initiatives.
Volunteer to help maintain park trails and structures.
Explore the park fully, appreciating all of the plant and wildlife it offers.

Rocking with the Umstead Coalition

Wed, 19 Sep 2018 17:00:05 GMT

-by Arianne Hemlein

You may have seen us in the median of Reedy Creek parking area at Umstead State Park in all kinds of weather, wearing sun hats and sturdy work gloves, scrambling up and down the steep slopes, carting buckets of river rocks, planting, and weeding. You may have wondered who we are, why we are out there, and what we are trying to accomplish. Let’s see if I can answer these questions for you…

Who are we?

We are volunteers for and members of the Umstead Coalition, a group dedicated to protecting and preserving Umstead State Park for future generations. If this sounds like a worthwhile cause, you too can get involved. Volunteer for work days, become a member of the group, or donate to the cause.

Why are we out there?

With the help of volunteers and the financial support of donors and partner organizations, we created “Forested Rain Gardens” in the medians where once only patches of grass and weeds grew. According to the Coalition, “This project provides several environmental and user benefits, including: reduced runoff volume and intensity of storm water runoff due to the infiltration into special soil media we will install in the medians. The trees and shrubs will provide much needed shade in the hot, steamy parking lot. The shade will reduce the thermal impact to the downgradiant streams.”

You can find more information about this project and several other initiatives on the Umstead Coalition website. When you visit in years to come, you may park under the shade of trees rather than in the bright glare of the sun, and you will delight in observing Monarch butterflies flitting among the native NC plants in our raised butterfly gardens. If you lend a few hours of your time - or bring a group of coworkers to assist during regular business hours as a community volunteer project - you will feel pride in your achievement every time you visit and have the satisfaction of knowing you gave back to the park you love.

What we are doing?

Currently, we are maintaining and modifying the Forested Rain Gardens in the medians of the parking area. Some of the rocks that were delivered to us for use on the slopes of our gardens are round like potatoes, which tend to roll downhill instead of staying put on our slopes. So they must go. We spent the last several workdays replacing round river rock on the landscaped slopes with more stable, larger flat rocks.

What to do with these lovely rocks that are not suitable for our landscaping purposes? It just so happens that these rocks are perfect for painting. We are offering an opportunity for you to create a work of art with family and friends at Umstead Visitor Center on Saturday, October 13 and November 10, from 2-4pm. Supplies and instruction will be provided by Sociable Art. All ages and artistic abilities are welcome and encouraged. Sample designs will be available. Get more information here.

Hurricane Florence in Umstead

Tue, 18 Sep 2018 21:07:32 GMT

-by Arianne Hemlein

It’s September 12 and in Umstead the yellow crownbeard are flowering, ripe muscadine grapes are dropping to the ground, and the bright orange heads of American Caesar’s mushrooms are poking up from the leaf litter. The park is temporarily closed, the parking lot is empty, and an unusually strong breeze is tossing the treetops and scattering pine needles and leaves down the trails. A hurricane is coming.

We are all aware of the potentially destructive effects of strong storms on our parks. We are saddened to see mature trees toppled across trails and may be denied entrance to the park for days, weeks, or months as cleanup ensues. As you prepare for upcoming storms, you can set aside your worry for Umstead. Rest in the knowledge that there are beneficial effects of hurricanes on our woodlands.

For instance, the strong winds that wreak havoc on man-made structures also scatter seeds far and wide, thus assuring diversity of species. If a strong gust sends a mature tree toppling to the ground, it leaves a large gap in the tree canopy allowing the sun to reach the understory. This way, there is an opportunity for new growth and the promotion of sun-loving species in a formerly shady environment. According to an article on the website, Sciencing.com, “Such cycling of vegetation communities is called succession, and it promotes biodiversity by giving more species the chance to occupy a given ecosystem and maintaining landscape mosaics of greater complexity”.

As for the abundant rains that can cause disastrous flooding, they provide much needed moisture to vegetation during the typically dry late summer months when our area usually experiences drought.

So, while we may not throw out a welcome mat for the next hurricane, at least we can take solace in the knowledge that our much-loved park will reap some benefits.

See you on the trails!

For more information on the positive effects of hurricanes on ecosystems, please consult the following articles, which I used for reference:

Positive Effects of Hurricanes

Great Storm:The Healing Power of Nature